I40 THE PROVINCE OF LADAKH 



soon as his hoofs touched the familiar snow. He had been 

 on the level plains for more than six months, and now 

 greeted his old surroundings with exuberant joy : I am 

 sure he was the only one of the party who felt at home 

 during the passage of the Eotang. His first performance 

 was to grab mouthfuls of snow and munch it with evident 

 relish, to the horror of his keeper. When he reached the 

 top he capered about like a goat, escaped from Kallu's 

 control, and had a most enjoyable roll, saddle and all, in 

 the snow — a freak which resulted in the loss of his curb- 

 chain. He was altogether too frisky to be led on the way 

 down, and I was obliged at last to free him from the syce's 

 leading-rope, after which he generally kept with the mules 

 when I was not on his back. He would follow me or his 

 attendant like a dog, but became quite disagreeable when 

 an attempt was made to lead him. On the present 

 occasion, as the pony skipped about on the snowy slopes of 

 the Eotang, and Kallu stood on the path (the only place 

 where he could keep his feet), they put me in mind of the 

 mother-hen when her ducklings first disport in the water : 

 Kallii, doubtless thinking the pony would break his neck 

 during some of his capers, shouted the most endearing 

 terms to coax him back, but he never ventured off the 

 pathway himself. 



We reached the Koksar bungalow at two, the journey 

 across the broad back of the mountain having taken five 

 hours for the ascent, and the same for the descent ! The 

 blue devils of Ealah had such a tight hold of me when I 

 left that place, that I really was on the point of giving up 

 my expedition and retracing my steps. I was thoroughly 

 convinced that I was not equal to the task of crossing the 

 pass, though I had done so more than once before ; but I 

 had not gone half-way up the ascent when my spirits 

 began to rise at every step, and I felt as lively almost as 



