KOKSAR BUNGALOW 141 



the pony, and thoroughly enjoyed the rough work : there could 

 be no more strikmg proof of the wonderfully exhilarating 

 effect of mountain air and surroundings at an elevation of 

 13,000 feet. The Koksar bungalow is a windy place. A 

 regular Tibetan gale was blowing down the valley, and the 

 cold was much too bracing. The building itself was a 

 wooden one, very roughly put together, and the furniture 

 was in the same style. It is three marches from Koksar 

 to Kailang. The road winds along the foot of the Lahoul 

 mountains on the traveller's right hand, while on his left 

 the mud-coloured Chandra river, at varying distances from 

 the road, rushes down to its junction with the Bhaga at 

 the village of Tanda. There is nothing for the sportsman 

 to do along this portion of the route but admire small 

 bits of scenery here and there, and push along as fast as 

 possible. The distance to Kailang is about thirty-two 

 miles, divided into three marches ; there are no bungalows. 

 Mules can do the distance easily in two days. The 

 mountain range across the Chandra is the one mentioned 

 before, along which good bear and ibex shooting can be 

 obtained ; a good length of it can be viewed from this road. 

 The Lahoul mountains on the right contain ibex ; but 

 they are difficult to find, and it is not worth wasting time 

 after them when the sportsman is bound for more distant 

 hunting grounds. Thirty years ago ibex were shot from 

 the road by the infrequent traveller ; but the beasts have 

 now been educated into a better appreciation of the Express 

 rifle. In the winter months, however, they can still be 

 found close by ; but I should say very few men would 

 undertake a six months' sojourn in such a (literally) 

 howling wilderness as this valley must be at that time of 

 the year. 



