CHAPTER X 



THE JOUENEY TO LADAKH 



Kailang — Unavoidable delay — A difference in temperature — The Moravian 

 Mission — Thaknr Hari Singh — His travels — Lahonli Buddhists — The 

 district of Lahoul — A sporting trip recommended — Resume the 

 march — The last villages — A pass into Zanskar — The fall of a mountain 

 on a village — Patsio annual fair and market — Filthy surroundings — 

 Put up a bridge — Rather unsuccessfully — Zingzingbar — Halt at Choteu- 

 rong-jeun — A cold camping-place — Bad weather begins— Collapse of 

 Indian servants — Alter my plaus — Mules and servants dispensed with 

 — Two Lamas turn up. 



Kailang is the headquarters of the subordinate magistrate 

 in charse of Lahoul, and of the Moravian Mission to the 

 Tibetans. A halt must be made here for the coolies, 

 supplies and fuel, for nothing can be procured between 

 Kailang and Eokchen in Paipshii, ten marches away. 

 I was consequently delayed here for three days. 

 Thakur Hari Chand, the Magistrate and Tehsildar (sub- 

 collector) of Lahoul, a very respectful little man with a 

 cough, was most obliging, and did his best to please me ; but 

 the people of the country have their own way of doing 

 things which involves, according to my experience, a terrible 

 waste of time. The weather also was unpropitious. It 

 beo-an to snow on the morning of the 6th June, and then 

 to rain. The bad weather continued till the evening of 

 the 7th. During this day the thermometer recorded 48° 



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