i64 THE JOURNEY TO LADAKH 



the snow limit is in consequence 20,000 feet. The snowfall 

 is said to be very small, so that below that level it always 

 disappears during the summer. Vegetation is scanty : a 

 little grass may be found near a spring or along the banks 

 of streams. The population is nothing to speak of — about 

 five hundred souls in the 4000 square miles of the tract. 

 They have about a hundred tents, one for each family, 

 and are divided into two camps. The people are called 

 " Champas," or tent-dwellers. The tents are made of yak's 

 or goat's hair, and are very roughly put together. They 

 have numerous Hocks ; sheep and goats in large numbers 

 can be seen returning in the evening to camp from all 

 points of the compass. The people I saw at Eokchen 

 seemed a lively lot, though they must have a rough time of 

 it in their tents all the year round. Rupshii pays a revenue 

 of 2400 rupees. The people told me it was oppressive, 

 but their numerous flocks and yaks, and the trade they 

 carry on so profitably, did not bear out the statement ; 

 they certainly did not look badly off. They were all 

 comfortably clothed, well-fed, and light-hearted. Their 

 costume is a choga (long cloak), two or more according to 

 the temperature, pajamahs, and a waist-belt. They wear 

 a cap with ear-flaps made of black lambskin, the wool 

 next the head. This headgear is carried with a very 

 jaunty air by the young men ; the cap is placed on the 

 side of the head, and one of the ear-flaps is brought over 

 the forehead like a peak. With the cap at a proper angle, 

 and a certain swagger, the youthful Champa looks quite 

 a dandy, though a dirty one. The men are tall, well- 

 made, and good-looking ; the women small, ill-formed, 

 and hard-worked ; they are unceasingly employed in 

 collecting fuel, carrying water, and in other domestic 

 duties ; some go with the flocks, and remain out all the 

 day. Most of the men seemed to spend their time 



