CHAPTEE XIII 



SPOET IN CIIANG-CHEN-MO 



Paljour, the old shikari— Sarap is "run in"— His iniquities— Leave Shushal 

 —The Pangong lake— Its absent beauties— Reverend Mr. Eedslob— 

 Dalgleish's murderer— Reverend Dr. Lansdell — Commissariat and 

 transport for a month's trip— The "Great River "—Kiam camp— Bag 

 my first Tibetan antelope— Description of the Chang-chen-mo country — 

 Gograng camp— Madmar camp — Explore the Chang-lung— Nyan at 

 last— A fatiguing stalk— Another tramp— Miss chanku (wolf)— Servants 

 from Leh arrive — Yakub's hard work comes to an end — A rare servant 

 — A final exploration — Curious glaciers in Gograng— A weird and 

 oppressive scene — Inaccurate maps — Return to Kiam — Correct name of 

 Gogi'ang — A change in the weather for the worse. 



At Shushal I found that Sarap had returned from Lukung, 

 where I had sent him to make arrangements for my trip 

 to Chang-chen-mo while I was nyan-hunting in the Dong- 

 lung : he reported everything ready, and had brought with 

 him old Paljour, Colonel Ward's shikari. This was a 

 stroke of luck, as he knew the ground thoroughly, and had 

 great experience in yak-hunting in the Chang-chen-mo. 

 Though he was old and blear-eyed, and his sight none of 

 the best, I found him of great use to me ; there was some 

 CO in him yet. To my astonishment I also found waiting 

 a warrant for the arrest of Sarap, issued by the Joint 

 Commissioner of Ladakh, and a sepoy to take him into 

 custody. There was, further, a letter addressed to the 

 " Master of Sarap," explaining that this individual was 



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