196 SPORT IN CHANG-CHEN-MO 



I was greatly disappointed with my first view of the 

 largest sheet of water known to exist at such a great 

 elevation, and which also has a name that no other 

 country in the world could match. Here it is — Tso-mo- 

 nang-lari, or Pangong ! It is said to be forty miles in 

 length and, in some parts, four miles broad, and it is- 

 nearly 14,000 feet above sea level; the waters are saline. 

 I did not notice their "lovely colours," nor the "richest 

 blue," nor the " sapphire tint " of the waves when disturbed 

 by wind, about which other tourists had raved. Under 

 the conditions which prevailed when I travelled along its 

 shore, it appeared most uninteresting. Its waters are sa 

 salt that every living thing avoids them ; there are no fish, 

 I never saw a bird, and nothing green grows on its margin. 

 At the village of Man, on the way to Lukiing, an old 

 woman offered me for one rupee the skull of an Ovis 

 ammon, picked up near the Pangiir-tso, in a valley near 

 Eishan, where I had been shooting ; the horns were thirty- 

 six inches in length : I did not buy. I met on the way a 

 gentleman who was called by the people " Kilang Sahib," 

 a name that puzzled me, until I discovered that the owner 

 was the late Eev. Mr. Kedslob, thus called by the 

 Ladakhis, because he came from the Moravian Mission at 

 Kailang. We had tea together, and he gave me the news 

 from Leh. One of Dalgleish's murderers, said to be a 

 Panjabi fakir, had been caught ; the Eev. Dr. Lansdell, the 

 great traveller, was expected in a couple of months, on his 

 way to the Grand Lama at Lahsa, and Mr. Eedslob was 

 preparing a letter in the Tibetan language for him. This, 

 journey never came off. I reached the valley of Paobrang 

 at noon, and found one returned sportsman there from 

 Chang-chen-mo. I had dinner with him, and heard with 

 sympathy his grievances connected with a hardly-averted 

 disaster in the Egyptian campaign, of which he seemed to 



