2o8 SPORT IN CHANG-CHEN-MO 



soap every day ! He was also the handiest man I ever 

 came across : he mended my boots and clothes, patched 

 the tent, kept the saddlery clean, was a capital horseman, 

 a first-rate taxidermist, a born shikari, and by no means a 

 bad cook. All these accomplishments were acquired in 

 the household of the late General Gott, where he was 

 brought up from boyhood. Of course he had his faults : 

 though a little man, he had a big ugly temper, and made 

 himself feared and hated wherever he went ; he also had a 

 weakness for liquor, when legitimately procurable, and he 

 was an unpleasant customer in his cups. 



On the 7th of August I made a long and final journey 

 to the head of the Gograng valley. After passing Pangta 

 we came to a large glacier, along which the four nyan had 

 bolted, after their patriarch had been slain. Moraines 

 lay on every side, and round the foot of the glacier was 

 the usual indescribable chaos. The walking was most 

 difficult, but we crossed below the glacier at its very 

 snout where water and snow were frozen, and the walking 

 was comparatively easy. About the centre of the glacier, 

 where the main stream issues from beneath, the muddy 

 water gushed up with great violence in the form of a 

 natural fountain about two feet in height, falling in an 

 ever-moving dome. The breadth of the glacier at its 

 extremity was about three hundred yards, and its perpen- 

 dicular height about fifty yards. Peaks, pinnacles, steeples, 

 and needles of frozen snow were visible above. Besides 

 the dirty stream rushing out from below, little rills were 

 pouring from all sides, as if the icy mass were sweat- 

 ing in the sun ; one jet spouted from a small hole in the 

 solid ice. I saw no sign of transparent ice. The whole 

 mass had the appearance of a solid mountain of consolidated 

 snow, quite different from other glaciers I had seen. It 

 was a grand scene, and the weird surroundings took strong 



