LAY IN SUPPLIES 251 



collecting my supplies, and received most kind and valuable 

 help from my friend. In fact, but for bis assistance, not 

 only now, but during the whole time I remained in the 

 Baspa valley, my journey would have been impossible. 

 I was not lonu in collecting the food and other necessaries 

 I required ; he also made over to me four Balti coolies to 

 carry my luggage, and promised four more as soon as a 

 party arrived from Simla. I thus had eight men during 

 the whole period of my trip, and was freed to a very great 

 extent from the difficulties of local carriage. The traveller's 

 principal aim is to be as independent as possible of both 

 local carriage and supplies in that part of the country 

 where he intends to pass most of his time. If he is fully 

 equipped in these respects, his presence will not incon- 

 venience the people, and he may depend on their good-will 

 and assistance. 



I was advised to collect supplies from each village I 

 passed. In this way, by the time I reached my shooting 

 grounds beyond the last village, I had enough to last me 

 to the end of my trip. Myself, three servants, and eight 

 coolies, made twelve mouths to feed, and the consumption 

 would be about nine seers (2 lbs.) of flour and three seers 

 of other eatables, or twelve seers per diem — nine maunds 

 (80 lbs.) for a month. Half of this quantity I obtained 

 from my friend's stores, and it was not difficult to make 

 up the other moiety from the villages as I passed along. 



I began my long tramp on the 13 th of May. M. 

 accompanied me to below the village of Sapni, and then 

 returned, leaving me to my own resources. The Baspa is 

 a large clear stream where it falls into the Sutlej, a 

 pleasant contrast to the muddy current of the latter. 

 The valley is very confined here, and the hillsides are very 

 abrupt. I saw a brace of Kolsa pheasants and a number 

 of very pretty small birds, one species with very long 



