252 THE BASPA VALLEY 



and slender white tail-feathers. I have seen them at times 

 in the plains in wooded country during the cold months, so 

 that these little mites must be great travellers ; they are 

 very quick in their movements, flashing through the green 

 foliage like white lightning : I have never seen one in a 

 state of rest. I passed Chansu — or rather the fields below 

 it, that are on a large piece of flat ground, which ends in a 

 precipice facing the river. The edge of the precipice is lined 

 by splendid deodars, the roots of which are so interlaced with 

 the soil that they prevent the land from crumbling away 

 into the river. It is wonderful how these large trees 

 retain their hold in such a place ; if one fell, it would go 

 straight down into the river several hundred feet below. 

 The road traveller to-day passes through cool and pleasant 

 forests all the way ; but the valley is so confined, and the 

 hillsides so abrupt, that there is no extensive view in any 

 direction, until a sudden transformation scene takes place 

 at the bridge over the Baspa, a couple of miles before 

 reaching the village of Sangla, Some distance before 

 coming to the bridge, the river dashes down its steep and 

 rocky bed in frightful turmoil, resembling a river of milk 

 churned into foam. Nothing could be better calculated to 

 enhance the surprise that is awaiting you as you come 

 round a mountain spur to the bridge. The furious torrent 

 with its deafening roar shows the turbulence of a 

 Himalayan river in its roughest mood, from the bridge. 

 On your left, whence you have come, the raging waters 

 disappear ; on your right, a broad and limpid stream 

 gently murmurs over its pebbly bed. Looking up stream, 

 the valley is seen broad and open, the hillsides covered 

 with forest, and higher up topped by a snowy range ; on the 

 left, bare and forbidding mountains edged with rugged and 

 pointed peaks. In front flows the now placid stream, and, 

 farther on, level fields, thickly dotted with spreading 



