262 THE UPPER BASPA 



we managed to dodge across, untouched by sundry pro- 

 jectiles which came whizzing down. The Balti coolies, 

 though carrying heavy loads, crossed nimbly, timing their 

 passage by keeping a steady watch above. The stones 

 seemed to be detached by the wind, which raged in fierce 

 gusts along the crest above us. The fall of a fairly large 

 stone could be followed by the puffs of dust as it ricocheted 

 down the hillside. Only one coolie and the khidmatgar 

 remained to cross. Just as they came to the dangerous bit, 

 we saw a fall of stones coming, and shouted to them to go 

 back. The coolie returned promptly, but the fool of a 

 khidmatgar, after retreating one step, lost his head and 

 stood stock-still. We, not -forty yards from him, watched 

 the stones hurling past on both sides of him, but by 

 marvellous luck not one touched him ! The man just 

 turned his back on the hillside and stood screwed up 

 while the shower lasted ; but the fright dazed him, and 

 when the danger was over he would not move until, shout- 

 ing having failed, a coolie went and led him across. It 

 would not have required a large stone to knock him over 

 into the river fifty yards below, where he must have been 

 drowned. The four Baltis were capital fellows : they 

 carried enormous loads, were extremely willing, and put 

 their hands to everything in camp. As we were reaching 

 the camping-place, Siiancho by name, some likely barhal 

 ground came in view, and I started on ahead with Anparh. 

 Shortly after, we sighted nine wild sheep coming along the 

 hillside towards us ; we went on to meet them, but they 

 soon got suspicious, and went back. Anparh said they 

 were coming down for a drink. 



At six o'clock next morning we made a start up a 

 narrow gully, then up very steep, crumbling, stony slopes 

 and steeper grassy hillsides. I stayed at some rocks, and 

 Anparh went about looking for the barhal, but he came 



