JADH COSTUME 279 



left us, Anparh went with them, and a coolie was sent off 

 in the morning to Chitkul, that the authorities there 

 might stop the Garhwalis before they could cross the 

 Bardsi'i Pass. 



A snowstorm came on shortly after my visitors left ; 

 but apparently it takes a good deal of bad weather to 

 stop a Jiidh. His head is bare in all weathers, and he 

 wears only one woollen coat nearly down to his heels, a 

 waistband round his middle ; this is his full costume at 

 this season. The coat is very loose ; when the weather is 

 warm, he slips his arms out of the sleeves, and the upper 

 part of his garment hangs down below the waist; when 

 the cold is bitter, he pulls his coat a little tighter round 

 him. The waistband converts the upper part of his coat 

 into a capacious receptacle next his skin, in which he 

 carries all his necessaries — cup, pipe, tobacco-bag, flour- 

 bag, and other sundries — not forgetting a small book of 

 prayers, which is taken out and diligently read when there 

 is nothing else to do. This latter circumstance impressed 

 me. Every Tibetan is educated, at least in such degree 

 that he can read and write. 



My servant reported that Anparh had at last agreed to 

 pilot us across the Gugerang, on the distinct understanding 

 that the period was not to extend beyond fourteen days, 

 and that he was to be paid one rupee a day while he 

 remained across the pass. He said he would take me to 

 the villages of Tungi and Zarang, which are on the other 

 side, and see what game could be had beyond those places. 

 He protested, at the same time, that no wild yak or Ovis 

 ammon were anywhere within reach. My intention was, 

 if possible, not to return this way, but to get back by 

 Puling, Siimdo, and Nilang, and down the Bhagirati (one 

 of the sources of the Ganges), to India. Anparh, however, 

 did not know that country. There was snow again at 



