CHAPTER XIX 



FIRST STErS IN TIBET 



Danam Paiiboli recovers his sheep — A young Tibetan — His intelligence 

 more ajiparent than his moustache — Tibetan officials — Anparli is un- 

 willing to make a start — Makes up his mind at last — Arsamang camp — 

 The way up — A scene of desolation — Rampant moraines mounting on 

 each otlu'r — First view of Gugerang Pass — Reach the crest — And enter 

 Tibet — A Balti coolie falls ill — Too much " pultas" the cause — A new 

 dish — Fraternal devotion — Pechang — The Baltis meet an old friend — 

 Are greatly comforted — Ascend a side valley — Xo game seen — Unique 

 scenery on the road — A disrupted mountain — Stunted trees appear — ■ 

 Rand — Naniitatto — Green fields appear — Yellow furze. 



The party of Tibetans who went down with their sheep 

 some days ago, and who passed my camp when I was at 

 Siiancho, came in on their return journey, and informed 

 me that the Panboh had got his sheep back from the Garh- 

 Wiilis, and that he was going on to Sangla to trade. The 

 affair was settled by compromise, both parties getting their 

 sheep. I entertained these Jadhs at four-o'clock tea. The 

 youth mentioned before was by far the most intelligent of 

 the lot, and his free-and-easy bearing on the present 

 occasion was pleasant to see. After tea I presented him 

 with a pair of scissors ; he at once got hold of a news- 

 paper and cut out a pretty ornamental pattern, which he 

 placed against the breast of his coat and admired vtry 

 much. I then gave him a small looking-glass, and he at 

 once put it before his face, and, with his finger on his 



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