290 FIRST STEPS IN TIBET 



considerable length. The main valley, at this point, is 

 level, and about two hundred yards broad, but stony. 

 There were a few bushes and stunted cypresses on the left 

 range ; these were the first trees I had seen since I left 

 the birches at Siiancho. It was much warmer down here, 

 too; the temperature at 3 p.m. was 54°. No signs of 

 human habitation, fixed or temporary, were anywhere 

 visible, and no one appeared from either direction. 

 Drizzling rain fell nearly all the evening. A coolie, with 

 the post, turned up after dark — a most welcome arrival. 



While it rained below, heavy snow fell on the ranges 

 above, especially towards the passes. I sent three coolies 

 back to Diinti to bring flour and rice, not wishing to run 

 short of supplies here. The bad weather continued all 

 day, so I occupied myself in diligently reading stale 

 newspapers. 



Anparh confessed, one fine morning, that it was no use 

 breaking my heart in climbing these hills after imaginary 

 rams. There were none, but some could be had lower 

 down, at a place called Nanutatto. I took him at his 

 word, and broke camp at once, reaching the place at noon. 

 After the first hour's march we came to a considerable 

 stream, which flows into the main valley from the left. 

 We had to cross the main stream above Naniitatto, and 

 followed a path below enormous precipices, whose feet are 

 washed by the water, leaving little room for traffic. After 

 this we ascended till we came suddenly to some fields of 

 barley — the first cultivation. The valley is more open 

 here, and the hills undulating, and receding from the now 

 narrow stream. There were several patches of cultivation 

 on both sides of the valley, but they were not in a very 

 flourishing condition, and had no one, apparently, to look 

 after them. The hills looked promising, the slopes being 

 covered with grass, and yellow furze abounded; above 



