CHAPTER XX 



AMONG THE TIBETANS 



Camp (liacovered by two old women— First Tibetans arrive — Marriage 

 customs — The real Panboli of Zarang — He stands on his dignity — 

 Tibetan manners — A Tibetan game described — Tibetan ponies — Her 

 Majesty's silver countenance changes the aspect of affairs — Anparh's 

 dilemma — The agreement ratified — The return visit — I hold an exhibi- 

 tion — The Panboh and the penknife — Tea and biscuits — Tibetan mode 

 of expressing satisfaction — Napier Johnstone — Tandup — His classical 

 oblation — Primitive way of cleaning a dish — The Panbuli polishes his 

 fangs — Tibetan humour — Preparing for a feast — Buy some curiosities — ■ 

 A welcome present from Mrs. Chering — Tibetan gratitude — The feast — 

 The Panboh and his followers depart — True version of the Garhwali 

 episode — Chinese exclusiveness — Lamas of Tangi interview me — A 

 present of three articles — A regular passport system — How trade is 

 carried on. 



Next morning, on my return from a walk, I found several 

 Tibetans in camp : they had come from the village, and it 

 transpired that early in the morning two old women came 

 from Tango, which lies just on the other side of the next 

 slope, and, horrified to find their fields occupied by my 

 camp, rushed back and gave the alarm. Among the men 

 who had now come was the elder brother of the young 

 man to whom I had given the scissors and looking-glass. 

 He had gone on a visit to his wife, and had most likely 

 taken her these valuable presents. In this country the 

 custom, so Anparh informed me, is for the wife to always 

 live in her father's house, where the husband visits her 



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