TANDUP ZANGBO 313 



going farther ; they had got us safely out of their country, 

 and took no more interest in us. Tandiip was the source 

 of considerable amusement to me during the time he was 

 my companion. He was extremely good-humoured, and 

 always in the most joyous spirits. With the help of one 

 of the Balti coolies — the most intelligent of the party — 

 I asked him one day what his surname was. After some 

 difficulty, he at last understood what I meant, and said it 

 was " Zangbo." It was not till some time afterwards I 

 learned that the word simply meant " good " ! He wished 

 it evidently to be understood that he was " Tandiip the 

 good." It fitted him very well ; in the morning he was 

 always the first astir, and, after putting on the tea to boil, 

 he would prepare an extempore altar made of stones, topped 

 with turf or grass, before which he would kneel and per- 

 form his devotions. His prayers were intoned in a low 

 voice and with great rapidity, and he read out of his little 

 prayer-book in the same manner. When this was done 

 and his tea finished, he would turn his hand to any work, 

 and, when the start was made, would lead the way singing, 

 playing on his black wooden pipe, or whistling. He always 

 carried in his hand his riding-whip, wnth which he tapped 

 his boots. When he was tired, or had to climb a steep, 

 he would sigh for his pony, flourish his whip, and yell out 

 the noises used for making that animal step out ; he 

 lamented the absence of his mount a dozen times a day. 

 On the march he amused himself driving the coolies along 

 like a flock of sheep with shouts and jokes and horse-play, 

 that kept them going. He belonged to the better class of 

 country people ; and, if he be taken as a sample of the 

 rest, I am sure the independent country population are 

 an amiable people, who deserve consideration from their 

 neighbours. Tandup Zangbo's intelligence, education, and 

 manners w^ere greatly in advance of those of the same 



