The Nile 



and a half — mudbanks form a kind of barrier 

 through which the steamer slowly makes its way 

 from one channel to another, generally casting 

 off all the boats towed behind except one, drag- 

 ging that through, and then returning for the 

 others, taking them one at a time. The river 

 here is all painted blue on the maps, but the 

 actual channel on either side of the mudbanks 

 is narrow, much of it being choked by reeds and 

 papyrus, in which are numbers of large bays and 

 lagoons. When the papyrus growth permits a 

 view of the shore, you frequently see steep banks 

 of red clay, usually dotted with houses in the midst 

 of their cultivation. 



Wadelai is still a telegraph station, but deserted 

 as regards civil and military occupation, as also 

 is old Belgian Wadelai over the way, some five 

 miles further north. Here we pass Emin's old 

 tree, still known by that name, where he sat and 

 meted out justice ; and the monotony of the 

 scenery gives one time to meditate on the trials 

 and troubles endured, as well as the brave deeds 

 performed by that unfortunate man — unfortunate 

 because of great physical affliction and his tragic 

 death at the hands of wicked men. His name 

 lives in every savage brain on the banks of the 

 Nile : an undying but sorry monument to his 

 great character. 



Rising from the east bank of the river a low 

 mountain chain is seen from a long distance, 



47 



