Lake Victoria to Khartoum 



At one of the landing-places on Tonga Island 

 (a long way on near Taufikia) we stopped for an 

 hour or two to try for Mrs. Gray's waterbuck 

 which inhabits the marshes round here. It was 

 all of no avail, and with the exception of a distant 

 view of a white-eared cob or two, which we spared, 

 we saw nothing and continued our journey to 

 Kodok, stopping at Taufikia for letters and dinner. 

 At Kodok we had a run on shore in the morning 

 and called on Major Mathews, the Governor of 

 the Shilluk Province, bringing him back to break- 

 fast on board. He had arranged for the " Mek " 

 or chief of the tribe to collect his men in their 

 war paint for our inspection, but there was such a 

 bitter north wind blowing that very few would 

 face the cold. So I was forced to content myself 

 with a picture of a man standing on one leg like 

 a stork, which is characteristic of these savages. 

 The odd-shaped head-dress which they wear is 

 in reality nothing but their own hair plastered 

 with grease and mud till it is matted and worn 

 into a felt-like consistency. It is then carefully 

 shaped like a fan. 



A few miles down the river we steamed into a 

 quiet backwater, at a place called Meshra Zeraf, 

 where everything in the shooting line had been 

 prepared for us. This was one of the best places 

 on the river, we were informed, and shikaris were 

 in readiness to take charge. 



The first day, however, proved rather a failure 



I02 



