Lake Victoria to Khartoum 



putties, and winding the tail of his shirt higher 

 and higher — round one's neck if necessary — 

 advance upon the swamp in that fashion, because 

 soaked breeches impede walking sadly, besides 

 being apt to rub one severely. 



The next day saw us into Masindi once again 

 — for the last time, I am afraid— and it was a 

 shocking day. No less than three times were we 

 soused to the skin in deluges of rain ; three times 

 the swear-words became milder and died away 

 as the clothes dried on us in the sun ; a fourth 

 time a storm caught us a short quarter of a mile 

 from the comfortable bungalow I was making 

 for, where I hoped to find a friend indeed on such 

 a day as this. But alas ! the place was un- 

 tenanted ; the owner was travelling round his 

 district, and we found no servant, no nothing. 

 To make matters worse, the porters were far 

 behind, as this was a very long march, besides 

 being exceptionally trying owing to the dreadful 

 climatic conditions. Nothing but drenching, 

 pouring rain all the evening outside, and shivering 

 dampness inside. There are many of you, my 

 kind friends, in town or in the country in your 

 stately English homes, where hospitality is dis- 

 pensed with lavish hand, who have no idea of the 

 hardships and discomforts of a wandering life 

 midst a burning tropical sun which eats up the 

 very marrow in one's bones, till one fancies one 

 has at last reached an earthly Hades, only to be 



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