44 • NIGHT IN THE CAYEEN. 



barren region of the peak was nine square leagues; and 

 as the lower regions viewed from this point retrograded 

 in the distance, the island appeared an immense heap of 

 torrefied matter, hemmed round by a scanty border of 

 vegetation. 



From the Llano del Retama they passed through nar- 

 row defiles, and small ravines hollowed at a very remote 

 time by the torrents, first arriving at a more elevated 

 plain, then at the place where they intended to pass the 

 night. This station bore the name of the English Halt. 

 Two inclined rocks formed a kind of cavern, which 

 afforded a shelter from the winds. Though in the midst 

 of summer, and under an African sky, they suffered 

 from cold during the night. The thermometer descended 

 there as low as to 41°. Their guides made up a large fire 

 with the dry branches of retama. Having neither tents 

 nor cloaks, Humboldt and Bonpland lay down on some 

 masses of rock, and were incommoded by the flame and 

 smoke, which the wind drove towards them. They had 

 attempted to form a kind of screen with cloths tied toge- 

 ther, but their inclosure took fire, which they did not 

 perceive till the greater part had been consumed by the 

 flames. As the temperature diminished, the peak became 

 covered with thick clouds. The approach of night inter- 

 rupted the play of the ascending current, which, during 

 the day, rose from the plains towards the high regions 

 of the atmosphere ; and the air, in cooling, lost its capa- 

 city of suspending water. A strong northerly wind 

 chased the clouds ; the moon at intervals, shooting 

 through the vapours, exposed its disk on a firmament of 

 the darkest blue; and the view of the volcano threw a 

 majestic character over the nocturnal scenery. Some- 



