408 ASTRACHAN. 



their chant or their music ; both were execrable, harsh, 

 discordant, noisy — a diabolical uproar. At last the 

 Lama arose, the music ceased, and the priests came and 

 talked with them. 



The travellers came in sight of Astrachan on the 

 afternoon of the 12th of October. They found a steam- 

 boat awaiting them at the ferry by the order of the 

 Governor-General OssipofP, and at once crossed over to 

 the city, where they were received by the firing of can- 

 non, and an immense crowd of spectators. They were 

 conveyed by four-horse carriages to the spacious apart- 

 ments allotted them, and the next day Humboldt was 

 waited upon by the dignities of the city, and the deputies 

 of the various nations represented in the population of 

 Astrachan. The Governor-General presented them to 

 the traveller in the order of rank. First came the burgo- 

 master of the city and the elders of the mercantile pro- 

 fession, bringing the tokens of homage, in the shape of a 

 large pound cake, ornamented with grapes, plums, pears, 

 apples, and salt. Then came the nobles, and the officers 

 of the garrison, and last the deputies of the Armenians, 

 Persians, Hindoos, and Tartars, a motely but picturesque 

 assemblage. 



The travellers remained at Astrachan nine days, 

 studying its diversified population, and visiting its bazars 

 and temples. In one of these temples they saw a fakir^ 

 who sat crouching on the floor ; his chin rested upon his 

 knees, between which streamed his long white beard, 

 that reached down to his feet. He had been sitting thus 

 for fifteen years, with no clothing but a sheep skin, 

 which was thrown loosely about him. He had forgot 

 himself to marble. 



