OF BRITISH FUNGI. 45 



species to appear in the markets of Rome for sale, it 

 would be certain of condemnation by the Inspector of 

 Fungi as unwholesome. Autres homines, autres mceurs. 

 In Milan it only became recognized as worthy of being 

 eaten after Vittadini had stood up as its champion, and 

 in the Venetian states it is scarcely known. The sus- 

 picion that attaches to this fungus in the Peninsula 

 extends even to Hungary, where it seldom appears at 

 table, although the Boletus, so rarely eaten in England, 

 furnishes a common dish. At Vienna, on the other 

 hand, the rejected pratiola meets with a welcome, and 

 is enjoyed with impunity. In France, as in Britain, 

 it is probably the one most extensively consumed ; al- 

 though in the former country the consumption of other 

 kinds is more common than in the latter. For the true 

 enjoyment of a mushroom, much will depend upon the 

 method of cooking, which, notwithstanding the little 

 variety in the methods employed here, may be served 

 up in a number of ways. From amongst the most 

 common of continental modes, the following are selected. 



Having picked a number of freshly-gathered mush- 

 rooms, cut them in pieces, wash them in cold water, 

 and dry them in a cloth. Put them in a pan, with 

 butter, parsley, salt, and pepper, and place them over a 

 brisk fire. When ready, add cream and yolk of egg, 

 to bind them together. 



Some tastes are in favour of having them dressed 

 a la Proven$ale, in which case they must only be cut 

 in two, washed and dried as before, and then soaked in 

 oil for one or two hours, with salt, pepper, and a piece 



