OF BRITISH JUNGI. 57 



with any confidence, and even these have not escaped 

 the censure of some who perhaps have never tested them. 

 In France they appear to be held in but little repute, 

 although in other continental countries they are sought 

 after and esteemed. In Austria, for example, they are 

 considered equal to any that are brought to table. 



One would imagine from the name (Lactarius 

 deliciosus) given to the reddish orange fungus found 

 in almost every fir plantation, that it would be a 

 treasure to an epicure ; and so indeed it is, if the testi- 

 mony of Sir James Smith is to be received, that " it 

 really deserves its name, being the most delicious mush- 

 room known." A gentleman of our acquaintance says 

 that whenever he finds them he considers himself 

 possessed of the greatest treat which the fungoid 

 world has to offer ; but that, having made their virtues 

 known to his neighbours, it is now but seldom that he 

 has the good fortune to enjoy them. (PI. 13, lower 

 figure.) 



The pileus in this species is fleshy, and depressed in 

 the centre, of a reddish orange, with zones or rings of a 

 darker colour ; the stem and gills are also of an orange 

 colour. The milk which it contains is at first of a deep 

 yellow, but upon exposure turns to a dull green : when 

 raw, the taste is slightly acrid. In some seasons and in 

 some localities this species is very common, especially in 

 the fir plantations of Scotland ; and the characters are 

 so distinct that there is no fear of mistaking any other 

 species for it. 



The other esculent species (Lactarius wlemuni) is 



