OF BRITISH FUNGI. 63 



dice against eating " toadstools " could be overcome. 

 Persons who do not emulate French cookery, or cannot 

 provide the adjuncts, are recommended to prepare the 

 chantarelle as they would the common mushroom; 

 taking care that their stew is not hurried, for if boiled 

 too violently they might as soon experiment upon shoe- 

 makers' parings, for their chantarelles will become " as 

 tough as leather." In France, Germany, Austria, and 

 Italy, this fungus is alike esteemed, and it is not at 

 all uncommon to hear from epicures who have been 

 fortunate enough to encounter a well-cooked dish of 

 chantarelles, rapturous encomiums on this golden 

 fungus. 



Batarra says that if properly prepared the chantarelle 

 would arrest the pangs of death. But regardless of 

 what Batarra or Trattinick, Roques or Vittadini may 

 say, we would advise our readers to taste and try for 

 themselves, should a dish of chantarelles ever come irf 

 their way. To this end we will give directions for 

 cooking them, as employed in France. 



After having picked and washed them, they are put 

 into boiling water, then stewed in fresh butter, a little 

 olive oil, chopped tarragon, pepper, salt, and a little lemon- 

 peel : when they are cooked, they are allowed to gently 

 simmer over a slow fire for fifteen or twenty minutes, 

 and moistened from time to time with beef gravy or 

 cream : when about to be served, the stew is thickened 

 with yolk of egg. 



As a substitute for such elaborate cookery the chan- 

 tarelles may be simply fried in butter or oil, with 



