OF BRITISH FUNGI. 73 



green as it advances in age. For esculent purposes 

 they should be collected whilst still yellow. The stem 

 is reticulated, especially towards the summit, with a 

 delicate, pinkish network of fine lines (PL 15). It is 

 frequent in woods, especially in the South of England, 

 and is well diffused and appreciated on the continent of 

 Europe. Frequently it will attain a large size, so that 

 two or three of them are sufficient to furnish a family 

 with a meal. The best feature by which to distinguish 

 this species from its congeners is the reticulation of the 

 stem. It would be well to notice if the flesh changes 

 colour when bruised or cut, for the juice of the most 

 unwholesome species of this genus speedily turns blue 

 on exposure to the air. Dr. Badham says that "the 

 best manner of cooking this fungus must be left to be 

 decided by the taste of the gourmand ; in every way 

 it is good. Its tender and juicy flesh, its delicate and 

 sapid flavour, render it equally acceptable to the plain 

 and to the accomplished cook. It imparts a relish 

 alike to the homely hash and the dainty ragout, and 

 may be truly said to improve every dish of which it is 

 a constituent." Mr. Berkeley takes exception to its 

 excellence, and gives as the result of his experience 

 that it is very moderate eating. Our own knowledge, 

 and that of gentlemen of our acquaintance who are 

 much greater amateurs of fungi, hold rather to the 

 opinion of Dr. Badham ; but tastes are universally 

 allowed to vary. The ancient Romans are believed to 

 have employed this species of Boletus, and, apart from 

 their predilection for snails, cossi, and other delicacies 



