108 



A PLAIN AND EASY ACCOUNT 



delicate as a piece of veal surrounded with morells, 

 suitably seasoned and cooked in an oven in its own juices. 

 In the genus Helvetia the return to the forms of 

 Hymenomycetal fungi seems to be still more complete, 

 on account of the even manner in which the hymenium 

 overspreads the surface, a feature distinguishing this 

 genus from the preceding ; but the student must not 

 be led by the external appearance in opposition to 

 important structural differences. 



The best substitute for the expensive morell may be 



found in two indi- 

 genous species of 

 Helvetia (H. crispa 

 and H. lacunosd). 

 Like the morell, they 

 may be collected 

 during the season 

 and dried, and thus 

 preserved for use all 

 the year round. He 

 must be indeed an 

 excellent judge and 

 of a most exquisite 

 taste, who can detect 

 the difference in 



flavour between the Morchella and the Helvetia, for 

 both are equally good. Berkeley enumerates four 

 species found in Great Britain ; i.e. H. crispa, lacunosa, 

 elastica, and ephippium. Doubtless all of them would 

 be esculent, but the first two only are large enough or 

 sufficiently plentiful for the table. 



