OF BRITISH FUNGI. 115 



trees are larger and more irregular in form than those 

 of the evergreen oak, which are nearly always spherical. 

 The plantation of vines in these truffle-plots has been 

 found advantageous ; so that, in some cases, rows of 

 vines alternate with those of oaks. As a remunerative 

 speculation, however, thus far the experiment has not 

 been altogether successful. 



M. de Gasparin says, " A sow is employed to search 

 for the truffles. At the distance of twenty feet she 

 scents the truffles and makes rapidly for the foot of the 

 oak, where she finds them, and digs into the earth with 

 her snout. She would soon root up and eat her treasure 

 were she not turned aside by a light stroke of the stick 

 on her nose, and given an acorn or a dry chestnut, 

 which is her reward." 



The truffles are gathered at two periods in the year. 

 In May white truffles only are found, which never 

 blacken, and have no odour ; these are dried and sold 

 for seasoning. The black truffles are dug up a month 

 before and a month after Christmas, when they have 

 become hard and acquired all their perfume. 



In order that all who are fortunate enough to find a 

 dish of fresh truffles may be able to cook them to the 

 best advantage, let us commend them to a few of the 

 most approved methods. If one should desire a ragout, 

 then let the tubers be well washed and afterwards 

 soaked in oil, then cut them in slices about a quarter 

 of an inch in thickness, place them in a stewpan, with 

 oil, or butter if preferred, salt, pepper, and a little white 

 wine. When cooked, bind the whole together with the 

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