SHOEING. 



45 



both heels, and just long enough to come a little short of touch- 

 ing the soft horn above it. Next weaken the shoe a little on both 

 sides, which may be extended over a much larger space than shown 

 in Fig. 558 ; or if the shoe is not very heavy, it may be spread 



without weak- 



enmg. 

 late so 



Regu- 



FiG. 505.— Sole and Wall Cut 

 away too much. 



Fig. 506.— Wall not Cut away 

 Quite Enough. 



as to 

 come a little 

 forward of the 

 point where the 

 hoof begins to 

 draw in. If the 

 shoe is thin, 

 the inner edge 

 shoul d be 

 turn up and 

 formed into a 

 clip, which, 

 with a little care, can be filed and fitted. 

 But if the shoe is at all thick, it would be 

 somewhat difficult to do this ; for if the clip is turned up so that the 

 shoe is too large or too small, a very tedious, annoying bungle 

 would be the result. In addition, it would be difficult to make the 

 clips sufficiently long to enable bringing pressure as high up against 

 the wall as it will admit, which is a very important point toward 

 opening the upper part of the hoof. 



The method before given, which neces- 

 sity compelled me to devise and adopt, 

 makes this simple and easy to do ; and 

 except the shoe is so thin as not to admit 

 of punching or drilling, it will be found 

 by far the simplest and best method of 

 forming the clips. When properly adjust- 

 ed, nail on carefully. The nails around 

 the toe may be larger than those driven 

 in the quarters ; and while driven so as 

 to give a good hold, and rather high, if the 

 feet are at all sore and tender, great care should be taken that the 

 hammering is not too heavy, nor the nails driven deep. The 

 clinches should simply be turned down lightly. If the hoof ex- 

 tends out over the shoe at any point, it should be no reason for 

 more rasping than merely to round off the edges of the horn. Let 



Fig. 507.— Heel as it Usually 

 Rests on the Shoe. 



