324 GEORGE HOUGHTON 



would have very broad toes, then would go to the other 

 extreme and run out so thin at the end that it was necessary 

 to iron plate them. There were only two or three styles and 

 widths, and one pattern would fit them all. Many of the 

 women's lasts were made straight. Very little attention was 

 given to the saving of stock in those days, and in the making 

 of patterns one had only to get them large enough. At the 

 present day the saving of stock in the making of patterns is 

 of the greatest importance. The measurements must be 

 absolutely retained. The character and style must be kept 

 up; and the lines, proportions, and graceful curves must re- 

 ceive the most careful attention in all their details, as these 

 are necessary to make up the symmetrical whole. The early 

 method of producing patterns was largely by guess, and some, 

 it is said, still cling to the old way. At one time what was 

 called the English system was considerably used, the method 

 being to take a piece of upper leather, wet and crimp it over 

 the last, and let it dry. This gave the form of the last, and 

 then the pattern was cut from stiff paper allowing for laps, 

 seams, and folds. This method gave good results, providing 

 that the person using it had good taste in putting style into 

 the pattern. Later came the Radii system, which some are 

 using at the present day. Still later came the Soule method, 

 and a book was published describing that system. This 

 method, which is said to produce very good results, is still 

 being used by many pattern manufacturers, and also by local 

 shoe pattern makers in many of the shoe factories of the 

 country. Some of the most enterprising pattern makers of 

 to-day, however, are using more modern methods. It is con- 

 ceded that America leads the world in the manufacture of 

 shoes, principally on account of superior style and workman- 

 ship; and the American last and pattern makers are entitled 

 to a large degree of credit in estabhshing the character and 

 style of the American shoe. 



The following gives a fair idea of how a pair of shoes is 

 turned out under modern methods in the factory of to-day: 

 First, the cutters are given tickets describing the style of 

 shoe required, the thickness of sole, and whatever other 

 details are necessary. From this ticket the vamp cutter 



