The Merry Past 



port. Long's was another sporting hostelry which a 

 certain group used ahnost as a club. Stephens' (in 

 Bond Street) was a fashionable hotel much frequented 

 by men about town. Fladong's was a favourite resort 

 of naval officers. 



The " Clarendon " (which ceased to exist in 1870), 

 between Old Bond Street and Albemarle Street, 

 was once the only public hotel where a well-cooked 

 French dinner could be obtained. Its reputation as 

 a resort of epicures was made by a cook, Jacquiers by 

 name, who had amassed a considerable sum in the 

 service of Louis XVIII, a royal gourmet, who was a 

 worthy gastronomic successor to Louis XV. It was 

 his custom, for instance, to have his chops and cutlets 

 broiled not only on the grill, but between two other 

 cutlets, in order to preserve their juices. His ortolans 

 and small birds were also cooked inside of partridges 

 stuffed with truffles, so that he often hesitated in 

 choosing between the delicate bird and the fragrant 

 esculent. The ortolan was termed by him la bouchee 

 du gourmet, as it was never to be eaten in two mouth- 

 fuls. He had even established a testing-jury for the 

 fruit that was served at the royal table, M. Petit- 

 Radel, Librarian of the Institute, being the tester of 

 peaches and nectarines. 



The King in question, rather prematurely, uerhaps, 

 deplored the decadence of cooking generally. 



" Gastronomy is passing," were his words to Dr. 

 Corvisart, " and with it the last remains of the old 

 civilisation. It belongs to organised bodies, such as 

 physicians, to direct all their ^inergies towards pre- 



179 



