MODERN BLACKSMITHING 6i 



borax between steel and iron for each weld. When 

 finished, the angle should be that of the square; that 

 is, when you place the coulter in the square the shank 

 should follow one end of the square and the foot of 

 the coulter the other. The edge of the outside side 

 should follow the square from the point up. When it 

 does it looks like a hummock in the coulter but it is 

 not. Old breakers will be particular about this as it 

 will cut a clean furrow if it is made in this way and it 

 will work easier. If the edge stands under the square 

 the coulter will wedge the plow out of land and make a 

 poor furrow. Next finish the chisel point, soft or hard 

 steel as you please; weld it to the coulter on the 

 inside, that is, the side next to the furrow. 



Last punch or drill the hole in the heel. The coulter 

 should not be hardened except a little on and along 

 the point. There is no need of a double chisel point, 

 such a point will be too clumsy and run heavy. I have 

 received a premium on a coulter made in this shape. 



MILL PICKS 



Mill picks are very easily dressed and hardened, the 

 whole trick in this case, as in many others, lies in the 

 right heat of the steel. Be careful not to heat to a 

 higher than a red heat. Dress the pick and temper 

 with a low heat, when the color is dark yellow the 

 temper is right, if the steel is of the right kind. No 

 other hardening compound is necessary than water. 

 After a little experience any smith can do this work 

 first class. 



