1^8 We Lodge at an Okeilah [ x 894 



good robber reputation inherited from past times. Our driver, Rashid, 

 pointed out to us yesterday the sandy passage in the road where cara- 

 vans used to be attacked by them in the good old days, and even some- 

 times now of dark nights. This reminds me that about ten miles from 

 the town we came upon a mounted Arab who shouted to us as he 

 passed that a cousin of his had just been killed upon the road, and he 

 was riding for help. 



" The proprietor has a son, a simple-minded youth in a white tur- 

 ban, who comes to sit with us and talk, and there are two servants, 

 one a merry man who makes coffee at the door, the other a vague old 

 mendicant who occasionally sweeps out the rooms, and goes on errands. 

 Both these are hashish smokers openly, for at Kerouan there is no 

 shame in the drug, and Terence, who went down to spend the evening 

 below after I had gone to sleep, tells me the kawaji was most amusing, 

 indeed they were all in roars of laughter through the night. 



" Terence is incomparable as a traveller for he has the readiest pos- 

 sible wit and a pleasant word for everyone, and wherever he goes smiles 

 break forth, and a kindly feeling of goodwill from man and maid. 

 He also is an admirable cook, and with Saleh his servant, has given us 

 excellent dishes stewed over a spirit lamp. He can sleep anywhere, 

 and all day long, and never is put out, or bored, or in a hurry, withal 

 of an exceeding good sense and knowledge of the proportion of things, 

 prudent, economical, persistent, the reverse in fact of all that dis- 

 tinguishes Europeans in the East, and astounding at his age (twenty- 

 four). 



" We went out last night in the streets, and again this morning, and 

 I think that no one suspects us of a disguise, though they are somewhat 

 puzzled at our affairs. We went to the Mosques directly after break- 

 fast, first to Sidi Okba's of which we entered the outer court only, for 

 the inner shrine was being repaired, and a surly guardian refused us 

 entrance, saying that without order from Sidna el Morakeb the doors 

 could not be opened, so we had to be content with peeping in and 

 complaining of the tyranny. We saw, however, pretty nearly all there 

 was to be seen before we were turned out. At the other Mosque 

 outside the town we were more fortunate. Here we were admitted, 

 and saw all, and made our devotions at the tomb of Sidi Sahabi un- 

 questioned. It was very hot all day, and we lay stewing in the balcony 

 of the okeilah till the asr and playing chess, to the wonder of the 

 proprietor's son, whom we told it was an Indian game. Then we went 

 through the bazaars and outside the town to see the walls, all very 

 interesting, and as yet little spoilt by the French invasion, and spent 

 the evening on mats under the city walls, where there was an Arab 

 coffee house, drinking lemonade, and so the long day ended. 



" 2nd Nov. — This morning, being Friday, the Mueddhin chaunted 



