184 At the Constantinople Embassy [ x 895 



surprised to wake up any morning,' said little Mile. Sophie, ' and learn 



that we had to become Greeks or leave the country.' All the peasantry 



and many of the bourgeoisie have conformed, and the young generation 



of converted Poles are among the most fanatical Russians. The elder 



brother of Countess Branicka's husband was concerned in the rebellion 



of 1863, the last flicker of Polish nationality, and was exiled to Siberia, 



the property passing, I fancy, to the younger brother. 

 * * * * 



" 2.6th Sept. — Constantinople, or, rather, Therapia. I arrived at day- 

 light this morning in the Bosphorus, coming by Russian steamer from 

 Odessa. A lovely morning, with a slight fog or haze, enough to give 

 everything a mysterious look, but brightening into full sunshine later, 

 with fresh north wind rippling the blue water. As we steamed down 

 the Bosphorus the Russian ship's mate, who talked some English he had 

 learned in Japan, described what might be done with such a position in 

 the hands of a European Power, the continuous streets, the railways, 

 the electric light, etc. Thank Heaven, it is still in its old-fashioned 

 way. 



" Arrived at Galata I was rowed straight to the bridge, and on 

 board one of the Bosphorus boats, and was so taken back to Therapia, 

 a slow three hours' trip, zigzagging from side to side, and in full 

 enjoyment of the day and place. Breakfasted at Petala's, unchanged 

 from its condition of thirty-five years ago, when I first saw it on my 

 way home from Athens in this very month of September, i860. Then, 

 going to the Embassy, I found that I was expected to take up my 

 quarters there, and here I am. It is strange to be here, with Philip for 

 Ambassador and Violet Fane for Ambassadress. Philip is altogether 

 charming, unaffected by his official importance, natural and kind. 



" 2/th Sept. — There are staying in the house Pom McDonnell, who 

 is Lord Salisbury's private secretary, come out, I fancy, to gather the 

 Ambassador's innermost thoughts for his master's benefit — a charming 

 fellow — and Henry Yorke and Lady Lilian. I spent the morning 

 answering letters from home, and went riding in the afternoon with 

 Philip and Pom over the heath-covered hills behind Therapia. 



" 28th Sept. — In the Embassy caique to Ruvukdereh to call on Neli- 

 doflf (Russian Ambassador) who, as an old friend, received me cor- 

 dially, but we did not talk politics. He gave me a long and interesting 

 account of a visit he had paid with Ozeroff and Haymerle in i860 to 

 Cairo, before any of the European innovations began. With Philip 

 and Pom I have had long talks about Egypt, and a little about affairs 

 here. 



" 2gth Sept. (Sunday). — Spent the day on board the Imogene (the 

 ambassadorial despatch boat) with Philip, Pom, and Yorke — a perfect 

 summer's day. We steamed down the Bosphorus to the Sea of Mar- 



