1895] A Disciple of Pasteur 203 



much in Arabic about affairs in Arabia, at Constantinople, and in 

 India, and in Tunis. He had just been on the pilgrimage and com- 

 plained greatly of the Ottoman misgovernment there. We also talked 

 about Arabi, and I was pleased when Fathy Bey, who joined our con- 

 versation, expressed himself warmly abou't Arabi, and in favour of his 

 being allowed to return to Egypt. 



"12th Nov. — Arrived early at Shellall, and descended the cataract 

 in a feluka — no very hazardous affair. Lunched at Assouan with 

 the English mess and met there Beshir Bey and Ahmed Bey Khalifa of 

 the Ababdeh. Then on board the steamer for Cairo. 



" 13^ Nov. — We s'topped two hours at Edfu, which gave us time 

 to see the temple, the most perfect in Egypt. Indeed, i't might be ' re- 

 stored to public worship ' without the smallest repair. Mere ruins are 

 tiresome, but this is not one. We have half-a-dozen tourists on board, 

 the firs't of the season — Dr. Ruffer and his wife, a Spanish diplo- 

 matist from Constantinople, an old Frenchwoman, and an English 

 geologist. Stopped at Esneh, where there is a temple partly under- 

 ground, and arrived at Luxor, and for the night, Kus. 



"Nov. 14th. — A quite cold morning with clouds to the west and 

 a feeling of dampness in the air. There has probably been rain at 

 Alexandria, and very likely a southwest gale in the Mediterranean, 

 where Anne and Judith are to embark to-day. Arrived at Girgeh, 

 where our few passengers got out; but I have decided to go on to 

 Cairo by steamer with the Ruffers. A wonderful sunset, followed 

 by 'thunder and lightning and some rain — this off Ahmim, a very 

 beautiful part of the river. The night too dark to go on, so after 

 running aground, we stopped for the rest of it. 



" 15th Nov. — I have had much talk with Dr. Ruffer, who is a su- 

 perior man of science. He was for two years a pupil of Pasteur at 

 Paris, and speaks of him with enthusiasm. He tells me 'that Pasteur 

 had a physical dislike for surgical operations and, he believes, never 

 was present at the experimental ones made on live animals. But he 

 did not hesitate to have them performed by others. I asked him how 

 much truth there was in the accusations made agains't him of having 

 kept dogs for months under torture, and he said that Pasteur had 

 made a mistake in experimenting on dogs for hydrophobia, as they 

 were much more dangerous to handle ; that it had now been found tha't 

 all the symptoms of hydrophobia could be equally well studied in 

 rabbits ; that, after inoculating dogs with the disease, it was necessary 

 to keep them and watch whether or not they went mad, and so he 

 had kept some of them for years, but that they were well treated — some 

 twenty-five of them at the time he was there. He said i't was a choice 

 between making experiments of this kind and not proceeding with 

 the inquiry. But I gather from him that he is not certain whether 



