272 We Leave for the Nile [1897 



strongest adherent in Siwah, and if the Government attempts to arrest 

 him, he will doubtless fly and take refuge with the Sidi, as he did once 

 before in the Khedive Tewfik's time. I am tired of waiting here, but 

 the delay has been fruitful in the knowledge I have acquired. It is an 

 experience not, I think, bought too dear. 



" 3rd March. — Got away at last from Siwah, accompanied by the 

 Maown on his white donkey and our four chief adversaries on horse- 

 bask, Othman Habbun (Wakil Sidi el Mahdi), Mohammed Mansur 

 (Hassuna's brother), Mohammed Kuli, and Abdallah Homeydeh. 

 They were riding wretched underbred mares of which they professed 

 themselves proud. But Othman cast envious eyes on Yemama, who 

 was fresh with her rest and full of spirits. 



' I have promised the Maown to try and get him named Mamur. He 

 says that with twenty-five men and a small cannon he could manage the 

 town — and I think he could if Othman were removed. He is the only 

 dangerous one of the lot, as he is intelligent, unscrupulous, and bold. 

 The Senussia in these oasis towns is a mere madness and ought to be 

 suppressed. It is, all the same, picturesque and interesting. I have 

 slept the last two nights on the housetop, and the midnight call to prayer 

 is the most impressive thing I ever heard. The town guards call their 

 watchword, which is answered all over the town. Then the drum is 

 struck, in sound like the sharp crack of a rifle, 1 — 2, 3 — 1 — 2, 3 — 

 1 — 2, 3. Then, after an interval, the mueddhin chaunts. Till mid- 

 night the whole town is silent — dead silent — there are no dogs at 

 Siwah except those brought in by the Bedouins. But afterwards there 

 are intervals of watch calling and prayers till daybreak. 



: The four Sheykhs got off their horses at the outskirts of the oasis 

 gardens and were wishing us good-bye, when Mohammed Said ap- 

 peared in the distance. ' I think he is not of your friends,' I said. 

 ' We are all friends here,' they answered, laughing. ' Fi aman Illah,' 

 said Othman. ' Salaam aleykum,' I answered, and he, ' Aleykum es 

 salaam.' Mohammed Said then rode up. He talked of riding farther 

 with us, but I would not allow it. He proved useless to us at the 

 pinch, and he only compromises us now. The little Maown I parted 

 from with real regret. He has been very kind and very clever. I am 

 to deliver a letter he has written to the Mudirieh (Damanhur, of which 

 Siwah is an annex), and to send him my pistol and a donkey's bridle by 

 one of our guides when these return, Mohammed Said handed me a 

 list of those who had been concerned in the attack on me, and then he 

 too departed. When all were gone and we were once more in the open 

 desert we all breathed more freely, and have pushed quickly on and are 

 stopping now at the last hattieh (palm clump) of the oasis, some twenty- 

 five miles from Siwah. 



" 4th March. — A long march from 5.50 a.m. to 5.20 p.m. over hard 



