AQUARIA 403 



we are making definite feeding tests, is the best one to 

 follow. The vegetable feeders, or those that eat only 

 animals not larger than worms and insects, may be kept 

 together. If we are not certain what a new specimen 

 may do, it is best to partition off one end of the aquarium 

 for it while we study its foods and habits. This may be 

 done by forcing a pane of glass into the sand below and 

 wedging it at the top with bits of cork. Goldfishes and 

 other varieties of carp, shiners, dace and all kinds of 

 suckers, darts, orfs, frog and toad tadpoles, young newts, 

 and salamanders may be kept together. Bass, perch, 

 sunfish, trout, pickerel and pike, pouts and eels, stickle- 

 backs and paradise fishes, turtles, water snakes, large 

 salamanders and frogs, leeches, water beetles and dragon- 

 fly larvae must generally be kept by themselves. Clams, 

 snails, and tadpoles form the scavenger brigade for every 

 well-ordered aquarium. 



A few simple pieces of apparatus will aid greatly in 

 management of the aquaria. A shallow dip net is indis- 

 pensable in catching specimens. It may be made accord- 

 ing to directions for the insect net, except that it should 

 not be deeper than about the diameter of the ring. A 

 small rubber scraper will probably be needed to keep the 

 slimes off the glass until animal scavengers and light can 

 be properly regulated. A dipping tube, i.e.^ a piece of 

 glass tubing, about fifteen inches long and a little less 

 than one-half inch in diameter, with nicely fused ends, 

 will be used daily. A piece of half-inch rubber tubing 

 about two and one-half feet long may serve as a siphon 

 to draw off the sediment from the bottom from time 

 to time. 



