180 



THE CANADIA^f HOR lIOUI/rURIST. 



a seedling orchard, seed being obtained 

 from whit I .su))posed to be excellent 

 sources, and of very choice seedlings. 

 I planted the seed just where each tree 

 ■was to grow, so no transplanting was 

 necessary. I fancied I was doing jvisb the 

 best thing possible, but on one side I put 

 one row of budded Mountain Rose peach 

 trees which were transplanted, and, 

 strange to say. that transplanted row 

 outlasted all the others, and yielded four 

 times the profit of the seedling trees. — 

 P. M. Augur, GonectinU State Pomolu- 

 gist, in N. Y. Tribune. 



RASPBERRY GROWING FOli 

 MARKET. 



At the last meeting of the Mississippi 

 Valley Horticultural Society, held in 

 Kansas City, Mr. N. Ohmei-, of Dayton, 

 Ohio, I'ead an interesting paper on this 

 subject, from which we extract the fol- 

 lowing, us being of interest to our 

 readers : — 



Raspberries are attracting more atten- 

 tion at this particular time than ever 

 before. 1 have grown the raspberry for 

 market now twenty-six years, but never 

 to the same extent as at present. I 

 now plant largely of them because 1 

 find their culture profitable. 



THK CONDITION OK SUCCESS. 



To grow raspberries successfully, 3''0u 

 must select good soil, well underdrained ; 

 let it be clay loam or sandy loam, but 

 prefer upland clay loam. I have known 

 them to do admirably in almost any 

 soil, provided it is rich and not wet. 

 Plough as you would for any other crop, 

 tlie deeper the better if your soil admits 

 of it. Harrow well ; plough out furrows 

 six or seven feet apart, and plant in 

 said rows thre(; feet apart — a partial 

 shade I find to advantage. My patches 

 that do best are in an old orchard. 



BLACK HASPI5EKUIES 



ai'e usually planted shallow, an inch or 

 two de(!p. Tf it is your intention to 



tie up you canes, that is deep enough ; 

 but if you wish them self-supporting 

 you must plant them so that by after 

 culture they will be at least three to 

 four inches deep, otherwise they will 

 not be self-supporting. By so planting 

 and pinching back, as hereafter de- 

 s('ril)ed, T never have trouble about my 

 canes blowing, or falling down by tlie 

 weight of fruit. 



The first year's gro<^'th I pinch back 

 when eight to ten inches long. The 

 secoud year, and every year thereafter, 

 I pinch back the tips of the growing 

 shoots when from twenty inches to two 

 feet high. They then cease to grow in 

 height, but throw out laterals in all 

 dii-ections, balancing and supporting 

 the main stem effectually. The follow- 

 ing spring, eai-ly in the season, I cut 

 back all latei'als with hand pruning 

 shears, leaving them from one foot to 

 two feet long, according to the number 

 and strength of canes in the hill. This 

 operation is quickly done and inexpen- 

 sive. A fter pruning, I gather and carry 

 out and burn all the debris between 

 the rows. T then cultivate, first with a 

 double shovel or barshear plough, then 

 in time with a cultivator, as often as it 

 is necessary to keep thcnn clean, free 

 from grass and weeds, up to August, 

 after which I let them rest. It is not 

 a good plan to cultivate too late in the 

 season ; you thereby cause them to 

 grow too late to mature the wood sufh- 

 ciently to withstand the cold of winter. 

 I plow and cultivate them three to four 

 inches deep. You need have no fear of 

 injuring the roots by so cultivating. 



RED RASPBERRIKS 



I plant the same distance as black, 

 three by six feet. This takes 2,420 

 plants to the acre. \ do not cut back 

 the canes of red varieties (as T do the 

 bhick) until th(i following spring, ex- 

 cept strong growing varieties like the 

 Turner, Shaffer's Colossal and others 

 of like character. These I cut back 



