How to Grow and Manage Azaleas 



DURING the growing period the 

 azalea should have a temperature 

 of from fifty to sixty degrees. Oth- 

 er conditions being favorable it will grow 

 and bloom in a temperature anywhere 

 from forty to eighty degrees, but these 

 extremes are not recommended, partic- 

 ularly the latter, which is not only hard 

 on the plant, but the plant is in such a 

 hot, dry atmosphere that the red spider, 

 which usually does not trouble the aza- 

 lea, becomes its implacable enemy. 

 When the presence of this pest is evi- 

 dent, spray with clear water or a weak 

 solution of soap and water rinsing after 

 with clear water or the top of the plant 

 may be dipped in the water, which in- 

 sures the thorough wetting of every 

 part. During this period the plant 

 should be given all the light and sun- 

 shine possible with fresh air whenever 

 it can be given without a draft. 



Liquid fertilizer may be given if 

 great care is exercised. The great trou- 

 ble with many amateurs is they think 

 if a little is good twice that quantity is 

 that much better. Many a man and 

 many a woman has found it to be a 

 fatal maxim when the plants became 

 chronic dyspeptics, neither fit to live nor 

 ready to die. For liquid fertilizer use 

 cow manure or guano. Use the latter 

 aeccording to directions on package. 



To make liquid fertilizer from cow 

 manure fill a jar or pail full of manure, 

 and pour enough boiling rain water 

 over it to fill the receptacle. This will 

 make a liquid strong enough to kill al- 

 most any plant. The color will be al, 

 most black. When ready for use add 

 enough of this liquid to a can of water 

 to give it a light brown color. Of this 

 strength it may be used to give the 

 plant a thorough soaking once in two 

 weeks. If the room is of moderate 

 temperature and the atmosphere kept 

 moist, watering once in ten days or two 

 weeks ought to be sufficient. But no 

 cast iron rule can be made regarding 

 the frequency with which watering may 

 be done, owing to the extent to which 

 conditions of soil, temperature and at- 

 mosphere may vary. 



THE BLOGMtNG PERIOD 



During the blooming period the treat- 

 ment is somewhat similar to that men- 

 tioned. Continue to give it light and 

 sunshine. Liquid fertilizer may now be 

 given once a week with a little closer 

 attention to the watering. The plant 

 will consume more now than during the 

 growing period, and while it must not 

 be kept wet, the soil must not be al- 

 lowed to dry right out or the buds will 

 blast and the bloom wither. If red 

 snider is suspected, try to get a cooler 

 situation, as wetting the leaves will not 

 injure the flowers. If the atmosphere 



C. M. Bezzo, Berlin, Ontario 



is dry, place a shallow pan of water on 

 the radiator, the heater or in some place 

 where the evaporation will be fairly 

 rapid, say about one and a half pints in 

 twenty-four hours for 1500 cubic feet 

 of air space. 



After the blooming period is over the 

 plant completes its annual growth and 

 should now receive water less frequent- 

 ly. When the weather becomes warm put 

 it out in the open air, a shady place on 

 the porch where it will get only the 

 early morning or late afternoon sun, 

 will answer. Or it may be sunk in the 

 flower border. When the latter is done 

 select a place sheltered from the noon- 

 day sun — but not dense shade—and put 

 half an inch of ashes under the pot to 

 prevent worms entering at the bottom. 

 Leave it here until about the first or 

 middle of September, by which time 

 it will have completed its annual 

 growth. 



THE RESTING PERIOD 



When the plant has completed its 



yearly growth and has commenced to 

 take its periodical rest it may be set 

 away on some back shelf, where it will 

 be out of the way, but not entirely for- 

 gotten. During this period it should 

 not lose its leaves, although it will oe 

 at a complete standstill. Water should 

 now be given very seldom, once in tnree 

 weeks should be sufficient if the tem- 

 perature is not over sixty and the at- 

 mosphere moist. About the last of No- 

 vember begin to look for new growth. 

 Most sorts do not start until about the 

 new year, but some varieties are earli- 

 er than others, and at the first sign of 

 returning animation bring to the light 

 and water more frequently. 



If at any time the azalea should lose 

 its leaves in considerable quantities it is 

 a danger signal which must not be 

 lightly regarded. The indicator points 

 to too much water or poor drainage, 

 and the matter must be remedied at 

 once. The azalea's demands are few 

 but they are imperative. 



'A Prize Winning Lawn and Garden 



ONE of the prettiest homes in the 

 City of Guelph is shown in the 

 illustrations on this page. It is 

 the residence of Mr. J. A. Hewitt, who 

 has won the first prize in the lawn com- 

 petition in his ward in that city for years. 

 One of the judges in the lawn and gar- 

 den competition, conducted by the 



Guelph Horticultural Society, is Mr. 

 Wm. Hunt of the Ontario Agricultural 

 College, who in a recent letter to The 

 Canadian Horticulturist wrote in ref- 

 erence to this home: "Mr. Hewitt is 

 quite an enthusiast and expert in the 

 culture of plants and flowers. Although 

 Guelph has many pretty residences there 



Front View of a Prize WioDiiii Home and Lawn — Rctidence of Mr. J. A. Htwilt, Guelpb 



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