1SS2 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



l\u 



the question is, AVould it have made any 

 difference with those buried bees, whether 

 the winter were mild, like this last, or like 

 the one a year ago ? Theoretically, no ; but 

 I am not quite so sure practically. — Tell 

 friend Hunt to give us a photo of tliat hol- 

 low-square apiary, and we will have it en- 

 graved for you all to take a look at. You 

 may write a description of it, and give us 

 those hints about the horse-power. 



HOAV TO MANAGE A SWARITI, ^VITHOUT 

 HAVING IT CLI STER AT ALL. 



A SEASONABLE INVENTION. 



MS the swarming season is close at hand, I send. 

 J^%_ you a little invention of mine that does away 



' with the necessity of "breaking one's back, 



almost," in moving the orig-iaal hive from its stand 

 (in case the queen is clipped). Last season I conclud- 

 ed to let my bees swarm naturally, and, as the queens 

 had their wings clipped, and the hives were too large 

 and heavy for me to move without help, I began to 

 study up some plan by which I could prevent the 

 swarms from returning and entering their old hive, 

 and this plan has proved a success. 



BROOKS' SWARMCATCHEB. 



To use it, let the swarm issue; catch and cage the 

 queen; place the wire screen over the mouth of the 

 portico. The stick holds it there, as shown. Liiy 

 the queen-cage (which should have a piece of wire 

 attached as shown) on the cloth, and against the 

 screen, and you are ready for them to return, and 

 will have plenty of time to get their new home in 

 readiness. The Ijees having clustered on their 

 queen, pick up the two corners A and B of the apron 

 with one hand, and the top of the screen with the 

 other; carrj- them to the hive to be occupied; place 

 the catcher on the ground, with the side C let down, 

 and close to the entrance. Start a few bees, and the 

 queen in the entrance, and they will soon hive 

 themselves. To use it on plain hives without porti- 

 cos, there should be an inch tin band tacked to the 

 frame, projecting hack, to keep the screen away 

 from the front of the hive, to f.dmit air. If you al- 

 low your bees to swarm, arm your boys with one or 

 two of these catchers, and give them a trial. I am 

 satisfied they will be pleased with them. 



Columbus, Ind ., April 5, 1882. Jas. M. Brooks. 



Friend B., I should say you had hit the 

 nail on the head exactly, from what experi- 

 ence I have had with swarms where the 

 queens were clipped. It is no use to let 

 them go back, after they once come out ; 

 and a hive heavy with section boxes nearly 

 filled, is no small "lift," as you say. An- 



other thing, after we have got a hive all 

 fixed up, resting on half-bricks, banked all 

 around with cinders, white sand, etc., we 

 don't want it hastily jerked away, and plant- 

 ed all askew somevVhere else, just because a 

 few excited bees demand it. Ilave your api- 

 ary all laid out, and have it fixed with as 

 many empty hives as you are going to need 

 during the season. When swarms start out, 

 take our friend Ihooks' plan, and in a sober, 

 methodical way, put them where you want 

 thom. Priend i3., we take the liberty of 

 crediting you with $5.00 for *•' professional 

 services" rendered to the craft. If it isn't 

 complete as it is, some of our bright boys 

 and girls will be sure to discover the '• miss- 

 ing link " ere the season passes. 



KEEPING HONEY. 



SOME seasonable HINTS FROM FRIEND C. C. 

 MILLER. 



ON page 111), N. F. Case gives some valuable in- 

 ) struetions, and I may be doing a favor to be- 

 — ginncrs to call their attention to them. Many, 

 however, having only a small quantity of honey, 

 may not flu 1 it convenient to have a room such as 

 Mr. Case describes; and to such, a few suggestions 

 may be useful. Besides, to have the benefit of a 

 draft, as Mr. Case suggests, the room must be rat 

 and mouse proof. I am sorry to say, that as yet my 

 honey-room admits mice, and I am obliged to keep 

 the honey covered up close, except when the brim- 

 stone smoke is in the room. It will not be difficult 

 to find in any house a place where a small quantity 

 of honey may be kept pretty well, providing we 

 keep in mind the principles that control the giving 

 and taking of moisture by the atmosphere.^ The air 

 is something like a sponge to hold moisture, only it 

 will hold a great deal more when warm than when 

 cold. It is not a good plan to keep honey in a room 

 where there is no fire, but which has opening into it 

 part or all of the time a room where there is a fire, 

 especially if the latter room be a kitchener other 

 room where there is much steam. In that case the 

 warm air becomes saturated with moisture, and 

 when it passes into the cooler room where the honey 

 is, the air, on cooling, gives up its moisture to the 

 honey, whether extracted or in the comb, thus mak- 

 ing the honey thin; and if it is warm enough after 

 thinning, it may sour. We are oi-dinarily told to 

 keep honey in a dry, cool place. I think I would 

 rather have it in a dry, icarm place. In fact, I don't 

 believe it matters how warm, provided it be dry. 

 Neither do I care if it is not so very dry, providing 

 the air that comes into it be drier than that which 

 goes out. For instance, honey will keep well in a 

 warm kitchen, even if there is a good deal of steam 

 in it, because the cold air that comes in has, as it 

 becomes heated, a greater capacity for moisture, 

 and takes up all the moisture, leaving the honey 

 dry. I have now some crocks of honey that I ex- 

 tracted in 187", keeping nicely in a loft over the 

 kitchen, the door being seldom open, so that no 

 steam goes into it from the kitchen. There is no 

 plastei-ed ceiling, simply the shingled roof overhead, 

 and in summer it is so hot it is suffocating. As I 



