SWEET PEAS. 



to justify the claims made for it ; ft is 

 undeniably a dwarf, forming a mat of 

 12 to i8 inches diameter on the surface 

 of the ground, and is interesting on that 

 account ; but in every other respect it is 

 a disappointment, four-fifths of the seed 

 sown in this locality were unfertile, the 

 flowers are small and the stalk short ; 

 in every way it is inferior to Emily Hen- 

 derson or Blanche Burpee. 



The causes of the great popularity of 

 the sweet pea are not far to seek. No 

 other flower combines so many points of 

 excellence, in beauty of form, beauty 

 and variety of coloring, exquisite per- 

 fume, convenience for cutting, and dura- 

 bility after cutting — they can easily be 

 kept fresh for a week — it is unequalled, 

 and if properly cared for, the quantity 

 that can be taken from even a small row 

 is enormous. 



A correspondent of Garden and Forest 

 kept a record of the stalks pulled from 

 a row 60 feet long, from June nth to 

 October 20th, when the last one was 

 picked ; the total was nearly 50,000, be- 

 sides a large number that were allowed 

 to go to seed. From no other flower 

 could we get the same profusion of color 

 and fragrance. 



The best soil for growing sweet peas 

 is a good heavy clay loam, rich and cap- 

 able of retaining moisture, as it is only 

 by keeping the roots ccol and moist that 

 we can succeed in having them in bloom 

 the whole season. If the soil is not 

 very rich, put on a good allowance of 

 well decomposed stable manure the pre- 

 vious fall, dig it deeply in and mix thor- 

 oughly with the soil, as they do not 

 take kindly to manure in contact 

 with the roots ; if not applied till the 

 spring, bury it deeply several inches 

 below the seed bed. If you want to 

 feed them extra well, a dressing in the 

 spring of a fertilizer rich in potash — or 

 wood ashes — makes stronger and more 

 vigorous plants. 



Plant as early in the spring as the 

 ground can be worked, they are quite 

 hardy, and will stand several degrees of 

 frost without injury ; indeed, in dry 

 ground where water does not lie, they 

 may be planted in the fall with perfect 

 safety. Make a trench three inches 

 deep, drop the seeds two inches apart, 

 cover one inch deep at first and do not 

 fill in the other two inches till the plants 

 are well up above the ground. If all 

 the seeds grow pull out every second 

 one — or transplant to another place if 

 wanted — after all danger from cutworms 

 is over — as four inches apart is close 

 enough for the best results. 



If your soil is light and sandy it will 

 be necessary to plant much deeper. 

 Make the trench six inches deep and 

 fill in a little at a time as the plants 

 grow, taking care not to cover them with 

 the earth. 



The soil must never be allowed to 

 become dry. The frequent use of a 

 sharp rake keeps the surface open and 

 prevents e.xcessive evaporation ; but, in 

 addition, water must be supplied liber- 

 ally after the middle of June, unless in 

 unusually wet seasons Don't waste the 

 soapsuds on washday, it makes one of 

 the best fertilizers. 



Some of the new varieties grow so tall 

 — in good soil as high as 6 to 8 feet — 

 that it is necessary to provide support 

 for them not less than six feet high. 

 The most convenient trellis material is 

 poultry netting with a two-inch mesh, 

 fastened to stout posts, firmly set in the 

 ground, with a top rail to keep the posts 

 rigid, so that the netting can be stretched 

 smooth. 



A very handy trellis can be made 

 from seven or eight feet of netting, bent 

 in the form of a cylinder and the ends 

 twisted together, with a stout wire hoop 

 at each end to keep it in shajje. This 

 set on end, fastened to a stake to keep 

 it upright and the peas planted around 



