GROWIXG A AD MARKETiyG OI' TOMATOES. 



they will have made large, stocky plants 

 and are ready to plant in the field. The 

 sashes or other covers used to protect 

 the frames should be kept off the frames 

 to harden them, for some time previous 

 to setting the plants out. 



When the seed is sown directly in the 

 hotbed, this should be done early in 

 April. A strong, even heat is desirable, 

 such as may be secured from a two-foot 

 bed of horse manure. Sow the seed in 

 four or five inches of soil, after the heat 

 of the bed has subsided to 75 degrees. 

 Additional cold frames should be pro- 

 vided for the reception of the plants 

 when they are removed from the seed 

 rows. Transplant twice, if possible, be- 

 fore setting in the field. 



In Window Boxes. — Fairly good 

 plants may be grown in boxes of soil, or 

 in flower-puts placed in well-lighted 

 rooms ; but owing to the fluctuations of 

 the temperature of the dwelling-house 

 and the lack of light, the plants are often 

 " drawn," stunted or otherwise injured. 

 When any considerable number of plants 

 is required a hot-bed should be employ- 

 ed. The remarks made above on trans- 

 planting from the seed rows, apply with 

 equal force whether plants are grown in 

 the greenhouse, in the hot-bed, or in 

 the dwelling-house. 



Field Culture. 



Soil. — It is a mistake to plant toma- 

 toes in poor soil. It is true that a warm 

 and somewhat light soil will produce 

 better plants and earlier fruit than a 

 heavy clay, but a large crop of smooth, 

 well grown tomatoes need not be ex- 

 pected unless the soil is fairly well en- 

 riched. Poor soils produce early, but 

 small, and often badly -shaped and much 

 wrinkled tomatoes. Sandy or light clay 

 loams, well drained, and well manured, 

 give the best results. 



Preparing the Ground. — Plough deep- 



ly in the fall. In the spring apply 20 

 tons to 30 tons of barn-yard manure to 

 the acre, plough again and harrow 

 smooth two or three weeks before plant- 

 ing time. Harrow again just before 

 marking out the rows, to destroy the 

 first crop of weeds. 



Setting the Plants. — It is better to set 

 the plants in rows 5x3 feet apart than 

 4x4 feet apart each way, as the wider 

 space facilitates the work of cultivating 

 the plants and of picking the fruit. 

 Planting will be expedited if a light fur- 

 row is opened in the line of each row. 



Planting. — Before lifting the plants 

 out of the boxes or frames, the soil in 

 which they are growing should be thoro- 

 ughly watered, so that it will be saturated 

 to the depth of the lower extremities of 

 the roots of the plants. A few hours 

 after this is done the plants may be taken 

 up with a ball of earth about the roots 

 of each by using a sharp trowel, or a 

 spade, if they are far enough apart to 

 allow of the use of the latter implement. 

 The plants should then be placed in 

 carrying boxes, transported to the field 

 in a cart or wheelbarrow and set in the 

 freshly opened furrows. When planted, 

 the ball of earth should be about an 

 inch below the surface, and the soil firm- 

 ly pressed about the lower roots. About 

 three thousand plants are required to set 

 each acre, when planted 5x3 feet apart. 

 If badly grown and the plants are tall 

 and spindling, they should be set in a 

 slanting position with a view of covering 

 the procumbent stem with soil so that it 

 may strike root. 



Cultivation — Shallow and level cul- 

 tivation should be given for a month 

 after setting out. It is then advisable 

 to attach the moulding wings to the 

 cultivator and with these turn a slight 

 furrow to the plants. The operation of 

 hilling is finished by making with a hoe, 

 about each plant, a broad sloping mound 



