SPRAVIXG FRUIT FOR SCAB AND ROT 



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DiAGK AM V. Showing the Percentage of apples of different grades. From spraved 

 and unsprayed trees. 

 Fig. 1119.— 

 Supt. of few perfectly free, and those sprayed with 



iHE Report of the 



Spraying for Ontario will soon 

 be issued, in connection with 

 our Fruit Growers' Report, 

 and, notwithstanding the comparajtive 

 immunity of apple scab generally last 

 season, it will still show plain and posi- 

 tive proof of the benefits of spraying. 

 The real question for our experiment 

 stations to consider is not how many ap- 

 plications may be given with benefit, but 

 how many will give sufficiently better 

 results to warrant the expense. Six ap- 

 plications are too many for the ordinary 

 farmer, if half that number will give ap- 

 proximately as good results. Experi- 

 ments in Delaware Experiment station 

 gave results as shown in accompanying 

 table in which the unsprayed gave very 



Bordeaux mixture very few scabbed 

 ones. It is noticeable that there is very 

 little difference between the results from 

 three and four applications. It appears 

 that the early spraying is what counts, 

 and that which is done after the fruit is 

 the size of peas does not always give 

 sufficiently better results to warrant the 

 expense. In one instance three appli- 

 cations of the Bordeaux were found to 

 give an increase of first grade fruit of 

 five fold over the quantity from trees 

 not sprayed. These three applications 

 should be made as follows : — (i) Before 

 blooming, (2) after bloom drops, and 

 (3) when fruit is size of peas. 



We are speaking only of the scab and 

 rot in the remarks above made. 



RICHARDA OR CALLA LILY. 



The bulbs are planted in the fall 

 in a 7 inch pot, the soil used being 

 a mixture of sand, loam and well-rotted 

 manure, in which place the bulb, and 

 after watering freely, place the pot 

 under a table or bench in the conserv- 

 atory, not necessarily excluding the 

 light entirely. They will appear not 

 to make any progress for at least five 

 or six weeks, just as in the treatment 

 of hyacinths, tulips and other winter- 

 flowering bulbs. After having remained 

 under the bench for the required time. 



they may be brought to the light and 

 freely watered until they have finished 

 flowering. Previous to blooming a lib 

 eral amount of liquid fertilizer may be 

 applied, which will greatly improve the 

 flower, as well as brighten the white 

 spots on the leaves. 



After flowering allow the plant to 

 grow for at least six or eight weeks 

 longer, when the bulb may be taken 

 out of the pot and exposed to the sun 

 until thoroughly dried, when they will be 

 in proper form for replanting in the fall. 



187 



