HYACINTHS AS WINTER BLOOMERS. 



HYACINTHS are sure to bloom 

 in winter, if treated intelli- 

 gently, under any circum- 

 stances, if keeping them too 

 warm may be excepted. The bulbs can 

 be planted at any time from the first of 

 September until Christmas, and will 

 bloom in from lo to 12 weeks after 

 planting. 



Three bulbs may be put into a si.x- 

 inch pot, or they do as well planted 

 singly in four inch pots. Any good 

 garden soil is suitable for hyacinths, 

 although if heavy or clayey, the addition 

 of sand or leaf mould is desirable In 

 planting do not press the bulb down 

 into the soil, but make a cavity a little 

 larger than the bulb, in the bottom of 

 which place a teaspoonful of sand, if 

 obtainable, on which set the bulb. 

 Draw the earth around the bulb and 

 press firmly, using enough to just cover 

 it. The roots of the hyacinth start from 

 the bottom of the bulb, and if it is 

 pressed down into the soil, the roots 

 will have difficulty in penetrating the 

 compacted earth and the bulb will be 

 thrown out of the soil when the roots 

 start to grow. 



After the bulbs are potted, water and 

 put in a cool, dark location, preferably 

 a cellar, but any place where they can 

 be kept cool and dark will answer. 

 Cover the pot to protect from rats and 

 mice, water occasionally if the soil dries 

 out. When the tops have grown two 

 inches high, bring to the light and after 

 a few days give them sunshine until 

 they bloom. The blossoms will last 

 much longer if the sun is not allowed to 

 shine directly upon them. 



To insure the best success with hya- 

 cinths in water, first plant in soil as above 

 directed, and when the flower buds show, 

 give the earth a good soaking, carefully 

 lift the bulbs, and gently wash away the 

 soil that clings to the roots by moving 

 the bulbs carefully about in a dish of 

 tepid water. Put a few bits of charcoal 

 in the hyacinth glasses and fill nearly 

 full of soft water, and place the bulb in 

 position, with the base not quite touch- 

 ing the water. Bulbs prepared in this 

 way give much better satisfaction than if 

 started in the glasses, as the flower stalks 

 are more robust and the blossoms larger 

 and more enduring. — Eva B. Dunham, 

 Maine, in American Agriculturist. 



REX BEGONIA. 



JTI CORRESPONDENT complains 

 /ll\ that Rex Begonia loses its leaves 

 ii li one after the other and is gen- 

 erally unhealthy. Is your plant 

 in a sunny window or shaded? Strong 

 sunlight is injurious to the Rex Bego- 

 nia ; a north window suits it best. Do 

 not allow water to stand in a saucer 

 under it, as it would be fatal to it. Be 

 careful not to let water stand on the 

 leaves of this family as it will rot them, 



and the plant should have room enough 

 for the air to circulate around the foliage. 

 Only repot them when the ball of soil is 

 crowded with roots. Keep just moist, 

 and water over the top of the pot ; if 

 allowed to dry out it will also drop its 

 foliage and take some time to recover 

 from the shock. In this case water 

 sparingly until new foliage is made. — 

 H. E. Goold, in Co-operative Farmer. 



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