June, 1912 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



M7 



A Productive Vegetable and Fruit Garden in Norfolk County' Ont., That of John Trinder, of Port Dover 



This garden comprises about three a«res. Mr. Trinder finds onions and celery his most profitable crops, but grows, also, cabbage, cauliflower, toma- 

 toes, parsnips, melons, strawberries and other varieties of produce. He sells most of his products to farmers living to the east of him on 

 land not suitable for the production of these crops. The balance is sold In Port Dover. 



face of the cut potatoes be turned towards above the gfround. The first cultivations in the spring as the soil permits. The 

 the surface of the soil. 



It is usually wise to harrow the potato 

 land after the potatoes are planted and 

 before the growth appears. This tends 

 to break the crust of the soil and to 

 check the growth of weeds. On many 

 soils the harrow can frequently be used 

 after the potato tops have made a growth 



between the rows can be fairly deep, but 

 when the fibrous roots penetrate the 

 ground it is wise to cultivate more shal- 

 low. Shallow cultivation after the pota- 

 toes get a good start keeps down the 

 weeds and forms a mulch which has a 

 marked influence in retaining the mois- 

 ture. 



Garden Vegetables for the West 



Angus Mackay, Superintendent Experimental Farm for Saskatchewan 



AT the beginning of the vegetable 

 alphabet is found asparagus. It 

 should be found also in every gar- 

 den in the west, as it is one of the easiest 

 to grow, and never fails. While some 

 advocate trenching and heavy manuring 

 before planting, it is sufficient if our soil 

 is plowed or dug twelve inches deep, -he 

 roots planted in rows thirty inches apart 

 and two feet apart in the rows, each fall 

 after frost sets in a heavy coating of veil 

 rotted manure applied, and in the spring 

 dug in about the roots. For asparagus, 

 a bed should be set apart by itself, rs 

 the one set of roots will continue for 

 years to produce abundantly. Conover's 

 Colossal and Barr's Mammoth are good 

 sorts . 



Beans are not a sure crop. They are 

 easily injured or killed at any stage of 

 their growth, and should never be sown 

 too early, and only the earliest varieties 

 grown. They are never out of danger if 

 the plants are above ground before June 

 1st. Dwflrf Extra Early, Early .six 

 Weeks, and Dwarf Kidney are among 

 the best varieties. 



In connection with the growing of cab- 

 bage, cauliflower, and other plants, cut 

 worms are very destructive. Poisoned 

 bran — one part of Paris green to jne 

 hundred parts of poisoned bran, not 1 10 

 wet — scattered on the soil about the 

 plants, and repeated occasionally, is a 

 reliable remedy. 



Cauliflower can be grown in much the 

 same way as cabbage. Only a few of *ne 

 early cauliflower should be planted at 

 one time, as the heads soon spoil. Plant- 

 ing at intervals of two weeks will pro- 

 long the season. 



Early Snowball, Early Dwarf, and 

 Early Paris are good and sure varieties. 

 Late varieties, such as Autumn Giant ind 

 Le Normand, seldom mature, but can 

 be pulled before severe frost, placed up- 

 right on two inches o'^ earth in a cellar 

 or other frost-proof place, and the roots 

 covered two inches and kept moist, but, 

 not wet. The heads wil! mature and prcS. 

 duce as good cauliflower, through Nov- 

 ember and December, as in the open. 



BEETS 



This vegetable can be sown as early 



seed is slow to germinate, and will stand 

 a heavy frost. In heavy soil, the turnip 

 variety is best, as it grows chiefly on the 

 surface. For light soil, the long varie- 

 ties are better suited, and are rather bet- 

 ter keepers than the round sort, though 

 both kinds can be kept during the win- 

 ter and spring by packing in a box or 

 barrel, mixing in dry earth, and cover- 

 ing with three or four inches of earth. 



Early Eclipse, Early Blood Red are 

 good round varieties, and Long Blood 

 Red and Covent Garden half-long are 

 good sorts for lighter soil. Sow seed 

 rather thick and two inches deep. Thin 

 out the plants four to six inches apart 

 in the rows. 



CEIiERT 



Celery is rather difficult to grow suc- 

 cessfully, especially when water is not 

 available. The trench system has been 

 found the best, although it entails a lit- 

 tle more labor than planting on the level 

 or in frames. The advantage of the 

 trench is that the roots do not dry out as 

 fast as either of the other two ways. 

 Less water is required and bleaching can 

 be better done. 



OUOtTEBITS 



Citron, cucumber, squash, pumpkin, 

 and so on, can be started in a box or 

 hot-bed April 20th to 25th, and planted in 

 the garden June ist, or sown direct in 

 garden June ist to 10th. Protection at 

 night requires to be given plants when 

 set out, for two or three weeks. Satis- 

 factory varieties are: Citron, Presc-v- 

 ing; Cucumber, Short Green, White 

 Spine, Giant Peru 'and Chicago Pickling; 

 Squash, Crookneck. 



