THE BEE-irEEPERS' REVIEW 



205 



close to one side. As the hive is per- 

 fectlj' square it can be placed on the 

 bottom with the frames running' either 

 way of the entrance. Personally, I do 

 not consider this an important point, but 

 it can at least be tried tothe satisfac- 

 tion of the user without buildinij a si>ec- 

 ial hive to experiment with. I believe 

 that shape and capacity are two fac- 

 tors which must be blended when build- 

 ing' a hive to obtain the best results. 

 The first hive I mentioned was built 

 without reg^ard to proper capacity', and 

 I believe the Lang^stroth hive is built 

 without sufficient regard to its shape. 

 Perhaps I had better modify the last 

 remark and say it is not the best shape 

 in a cold climate when bees are win- 

 tered out doors. 



The section supers of my iiives are 

 made Js of an inch larger and accom- 

 modate 28, 3^8 X 5)4 inch sections 



with section holders and fence sepa- 

 rators. 



Perhaps some one may sugg-est that 

 the hive is too deep to obtain g^ood re- 

 sults in surplus. Remember the ca- 

 pacity is equal to about eight L. 

 frames, and I believe from my observa- 

 tions, that the proper capacity has 

 more to do with surplus g^etting- than 

 shape of hive. I also think that proper 

 shape has more to do than capacity for 

 successful wintering'. 



Palermo, Ont., Mar. 5, 1906. 



[Let me sug^gest to Bro. Smith and to 

 all who think the Lang-stroth frame is 

 too shallow for winter use, those who 

 want a taller frame that the stores may 

 be above the bees, that they stand their 

 Langstroth hive on end in winter — 

 then they will have deep frames. — Ed. 

 Review.] 



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Made ©f Cementc 



D. E. LHOMMEDIEU. 



¥E bee-keepers like a little pepper 

 and salt sprinkled in among- so 

 many out-yards; just to give a little 

 seasoning", I g-uess, so today, it will be 

 on the subject of hive stands. 



My hive stands, for nearly 30 years, 

 have been a round stick of stove wood, 

 as long- as the hive is wide, and split 

 in two, making' two pieces of each 

 round of stick, the bearing' surface of 

 the hive bottom resting' on the round 

 side of the sticks, leaves a compara- 

 tively small surface for the retention 

 of rain and dampness to stay to rot the 

 hive bottom. 



My brother made stands by cutting- 

 2x4, and 2x6, and 2x1 inch pieces the 

 right length for the width of the hives, 

 and I objected some at the time, and 



by using- them a few years they nearly 

 rotted out the hive bottoms. 



Four bricks, or four stakes have so 

 much bearing- surface that it amounts 

 to much the same thing' in holding' 

 more or less dampness. 



To use tile is not exactly the thing, 

 in every way, and the half-round sticks 

 finally rot out, so I am g'oing' to try a 

 cement stand, and I would like the 

 opinion of the Review and its readers. 

 Here is the way to make them: 



Imagine a little pig trough as long 

 as the hive is wide, V-shaped, and as 

 deep as you want the stand block. 

 Now fill this with good, stiff mortar, 

 one part best cement, and two parts 

 sharp sand. A few strokes of the 

 trowel and it is ready to dry. When 



