3l0 



THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW 



set up cedar posts about three feet apart 

 and board up with cheap hemlock lum- 

 ber on the outside of the posts. For a 

 roof, first spike 2x6 scantling'to the tops 

 of the posts, that is, let one scantling' 

 extend across the cellar from the top of 

 one post to a post on the opposite side 

 of the cellar. Nail cheap lumber to the 

 under side of the 2x6 joists, and cover 

 the fioor, to the depth of a foot, with 

 dry sawdust. Put a peaked roof of 

 cheap lumber over the sawdust to keep 

 it dry- Have the gfableendsof the roof 

 made of lumber to keep out the snow. 

 Leave an opening' two feet square in 

 the center of the floor. This will allow 

 the dampness to pass off. Have a 

 double door at the lower end of the 

 cellar. The bottom of the cellar at this 

 end will be level with the ground out- 

 side. 



Now then, the roof, sawdust and 

 joists will remain sound indefinitely, 

 and can be moved away and used in 

 some other location if so desired. The 

 posts and sand walls will last several 

 years, long enough to enable us to de- 

 cide whether we are to occupy the 

 location permanently ; in which case, 

 we will simply board up inside the 

 posts, filling the space between the two 

 walls with a cement mortar, when we 

 will have permanent walls. 



This plan allows us to build a cellar 

 very cheaply, yet to save and use most 

 of the materials in case there is a 

 change of location. If there is no 

 chang'e, then a little additional expense 

 will make a permanent establishment 

 out of it. 



If we are making a mistake any- 

 where please write us at once. 



Burying Bees. 



A subscriber asks me to give the best 

 plan for wintering bees in pits. 



The first requisite is a sandy hill- 

 side. Clay is death — don't attf mpt it 

 if the soil is not sandy and dr^. 



Dig a trench several inches largt- 

 each way than the hives, and several 



inches deeper than the hives. Lay 

 down poles or scantling to set the hives 

 on. The hives ought to be up at least 

 six or seven inches above the bottom of 

 the trench, and the top about even 

 with the surface of the earth, lay poles 

 across the trench, then some more poles 

 lengthwise of the trench, on top of the 

 poles first put on, and cover all with a 

 foot of straw, then shovel on the earth 

 to the depth of about 18 inches. 



Better have the pits extend up and 

 down the hill, then there will be no 

 opportunity for the water to stand on 

 them. 



There is no need whatever of putting 

 in any ventilation, as I have proven by 

 repeated experiments. 



I leave ofli^ the bottom to the hives and 

 raise the covers a little crack, putting 

 a piece of section honey box, or some 

 other thin slip of wood to hold up the 



•A«»««^^«^«^» 



Provisional Program of Inspectors' 

 Meeting, 



San Antonio, Texas, November 12, 1()06. 



Demonstration of Biicteria of Bee Dis- 

 eases 



Dr. G. F. White,United States Dept. 



of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 



History of Bee Disease Inspection in 



Wisconsin 



N. E. France, Inspector of apiaries 

 for Wisconsin, Platteville, Wis- 

 consin. 



General Discussion of Existing Bee 

 Disease Laws An Examination of 

 Laws Now in Force and Sugges- 

 tions for Most Effective Legislation 



The Introduction of European F^oul 



Brood into Michigan 



W. Z. Hutchinson, Inspector of apia- 

 ries for Michigan, Flint, Michigan. 



The Inspection of European Foul Brood 



in New York 



Charles Stewart, Inspector, 3rd Dis- 

 trict of New York, Sammonsville, 

 New York, 



