April 4, 1901. 



AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL 



219 



might fail if they should swap plans. If time was plenty, 

 and it was decided to take extra precaution, this might be 

 done : At the time of day when bees were busy flying, 

 remove the old queen and set the hive in a new place, after 

 first taking from it a frame of brood and bees to put in 

 another hive on the old stand ; put the new queen in the 

 removed hive and perhaps two days later return to the old 

 place, giving it back its frame of brood. 



Now it's none of my business, but if you're requeen- 

 ing with young queens to avoid swarming, I'll volunteer 

 the remark that in this locality it doesn't do to make the 

 change too early. 



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Transferrins: Controlling Swarming. 



I got a start in bees last summer. Can I transfer or 

 increase, and incidentally control swarming, by placing 

 Langstroth hives with starters under or over ho^-hivesl or 

 does the " A B C of Bee-Culture" (which I have) cover the 

 whole ground ? If so. I shall have to follow instructions 

 therein. Indiana. 



Answer. — If you put a box-hive over a frame-hive hav- 

 ing its frames tilled with foundation, and allow the bees to 

 work down and fill the lower hive, you will probably have, 

 if you wait long enough, all the brood in the lower story, 

 and consequently the colony transferred, and you may con- 

 fidently count on no swarming. With a little more trouble 

 you can have a surer and quicker way. Put on the stand 

 of the box-hive a movable-frame hive filled with foundation, 

 and put over it a queen-excluder. Drum the bees out of the 

 box-hive until you think you have the queen, and run them 



into the frame-hive. Set the box-hive over the excluder, 

 and close up any opening over the frame-hive or under the 

 box-hive. A week later look to see if you have eggs below, 

 and if not drum again. Three weeks after the queen is 

 drummed out all the brood will be below (unless it be a 

 small amount of worthless drone-brood), and the box-hive 

 may be disposed of. No danger of swarming. It will be a 

 help in either case if you can get a frame of brood from 

 another colony and put it in the frame-hive at the first. 



Stimulative Brood-Rearing in the Spring. 



When should I begin, and how much should I feed, to 

 stimulate brood-rearing in the spring? The colonies are 

 pretty weak. Illinois. 



Answer — Unless you are somewhat experienced, and 

 unless you are very careful, you will do well to let stimula- 

 tive feeding alone. It may do good and it may do harm. 

 If you feed so as to start the bees to Hying out when it is so 

 cold that they will be chilled and lost, it will be a losing 

 speculation. If the bees are started out flying, and then it 

 suddenly turns cloudy when the temperature is not very 

 high, the bees may never return to their hives. It maybe 

 a safer thing, and perhaps just as well in the long run, if 

 you see that the bees have abundance of stores, and have 

 all cracks about the hive closed, and then leave them to 

 themselves. But if you think it best to try stimulative 

 feeding, begin when the bees fly out every day at least a 

 little, feeding every evening, or every alternate evening, a 

 half pound of sugar with an equal or greater quantity of 

 water. 



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