RAMIE, RHEA, 



GRASS, OR NETTLE FIBRE. 



of like quality are then placed in the degum- 

 ining kiers or vats, in which the filasse is 

 treated by steam, water, and chemicals in such 

 a way that the gum is dissolved and removed, 

 leaving the fibre free from gum, skin, dirt, 

 chemicals, .etc. The essentials for a successful 

 degumming operation are : Plenty of pure 

 water and steam and a set of machines and 

 apparata constructed so as to enable the masse 

 to be thoroughly treated in the most 

 economical manner,. and with the least possible 

 handling. Under no circumstances must the 

 fibre be seriously affected by the treatment. 

 Its enormous strength, its splendid lustre and 

 softness, must remain the same after the de- 

 gumming process as before it ; consequently 

 the chemicals used must be of such a nature 

 and of so slight a degree of strength as to 

 accomplish the removal of the gum without 

 deterioration of the filasse in any respect. The 

 process, when properly understood, is neither 

 complicated nor difficult, and needs principally 

 care and a practical mode of treatment. The 

 machinery used, in addition to the kiers or 

 vats, comprises washing machines, hydro-ex- 

 tractors, squeezers, pumps, etc. These need 

 not be of very special construction. 



The main art of successfully degumming 

 ramie lies in the use of suitable chemicals in 

 very weak solution and in the thorough wash- 

 ing of the filasse in the last stage of the de- 

 gumming process. The filasse then usually 

 undergoes bleaching, for which no special plant 

 is required : it may be bleached in the same 

 way as cotton or flax. There is a diversity of 

 opinion as to the degree of chemical bleaching 

 to be applied to ramie and the stage at which 

 it is best carried out. Some manufacturers 

 prefer to complete the process immediately the 

 filasse is degummed ; others prefer to half 

 bleach the filasse and to complete the bleach- 

 ing on the grass in the same way as linen 

 goods are bleached. Others again prefer to 

 leave the bleaching process to a later stage 

 say, when the filasse has been spun into yarn 

 and made up into goods. For a great variety 

 of purposes no bleaching whatever is required, 

 because some goods are generally sold and used 

 in the grey state : for instance, many kinds 

 of linings, canvas, sailcloths, etc., also ropes, 

 cords, lines, twine, etc. 



One very important matter to be observed 

 in connection with the bleaching of ramie 

 filasse, yarn, and goods is to free them ab- 

 solutely from chemicals by efficient neutralising 

 and by copious washings, etc. A very large 



number of processes for degumming ramie have 

 been invented and patented, and the names of 

 the chemicals suggested are legion. Many of 

 these processes have proved to be failures, 

 being mainly the result of laboratory experi- 

 ments. 



In degumming ramie the following import- 

 ant conditions must of necessity be observed : 



(A) The process must not attack the 

 strength of the fibre. 



(B) The fibre has naturally a beautiful 

 lustre, almost if not quite equal to silk ; this 

 lustre must be retained, and nothing in the 

 process which the filasse undergoes must affect 

 its lustre or render it harsh and difficult to 

 pass through the machinery. 



(c) Ramie, when properly degummed, takes 

 dyes freely (notably all the finer dyes) and 

 lends itself freely to the absorption of the 

 brightest colours quite on an equality with silk, 

 retaining at the same time its beautiful lustre ; 

 consequently this quality of receiving and re- 

 taining colours must not be affected by the 

 degumming process. 



(D) The degumming process must not only 

 be of a nature to cause the fibre to retain 

 its strength, lustre, and colour at the time 

 of manufacture, but also for years afterwards. 



An immense amount of unfounded pre- 

 judice has been created against ramie 

 and ramie goods through imperfect treat- 

 ment and defective degumming. Spinners 

 and manufacturers have experienced heavy 

 losses through ramie yarns and goods 

 having, after a few months' time, lost their 

 strength, lustre, and colour and become rotten 

 and worthless. These disastrous results have 

 been in many cases ignorantly attributed to 

 some natural defects of ramie fibre ; they were, 

 however, due solely to defective degumming 

 and bleaching. Ramie goods are as lasting as 

 any textile goods, as has been fully proved. 

 For instance, the Chinese have used the fibre 

 for many centuries, and their many hundred 

 years old fabrics exhibit marvellous lasting 

 qualities, quite equal to the flax mummy 

 cloths. 



(E) Finally, and this is of great importance, 

 the degumming and bleaching processes used 

 must be capable of being carried out easily, 

 quickly, and in an economical manner, so as 

 to be a commercial success. Some of the 

 patented degumming processes, -even if success- 

 ful in practice, are prohibitive by reason of 

 their enormous cost and complicated treatment. 



