ABOUT ROSES 113 



roots gradually appear. When there are several from each 

 cutting carefully plant them in sandy soil in the garden. 

 The following spring they can be transferred to stronger 

 soil, and about a year later they should be ready for planting 

 in their permanent positions. 



Another way is to cut shoots 12-18 ins. long, make a 

 deep nick in the ground with the spade ; throw some sand 

 down, put the cuttings in a row, and firm them well. 

 This is best done in the autumn, and the plants should be 

 ready for removal twelve months later. 



The After Treatment : When dwarf roses have been 

 planted there is important after treatment which must not 

 be neglected. The borders should be frequently hoed and 

 weeds removed. 



It is important to cut the flowers regularly, and to 

 remove all dead blooms at once ; by this means the flowering 

 season is greatly prolonged and the plants are strengthened. 



Watering should be thorough (see Chapter XVIII). 

 As a rule it is not necessary to feed roses, but they may have 

 an occasional dose of one of the liquid manures described 

 in Chapter XIX. 



If the foliage is kept damp by spraying in the evenings 

 after hot summer days pests will not be troublesome. For 

 information on this point see Chapter XVII. 



I cannot leave the subject of rose growing without men- 

 tioning Tonk's manure, which is regarded as indispensable 

 for success by many growers. I have never tried it, 

 but have always been content to use basic slag and short 

 manure. My readers, however, may like to try its effect, 

 and in case they cannot get it ready mixed, I give the 

 formula below. I may say that the formula is no secret, 

 it is public property, so I am quite at liberty to give it here. 



FORMULA OF TONK'S ROSE MANURE 



Superphosphate of Lime .. .. i*i .. 3 Ibs. 



Kainit . . . 2 \ Ibs. 



Sulphate of Lime 2 Ibs. 



Sulphate of Magnesia \ Ib. 



Sulphate of Iron (Unoxidised) . . ... Ib. 



