FARM BUILDINGS. 



649 



of basement might be desired, which would be good economy up to 10 or 12 feet, if it is 

 found that the grade will permit. This will allow better ventilation, more security from 

 frost, and room to allow 2 or 3 feet of manure to accumulate under foot, if desired. It 

 will keep in good condition if trodden down as made, but will not freeze to hinder its being 

 drawn out at any time. After digging the cellar, and it is ready for the wall, dig a trench 

 as broad as the wall is to be, and 18 inches deep. Fill this with small, loose, broken stones. 

 Boulders broken up somewhat as they are put in are best, but chips from the stone-yard will 

 do. Fill the trench even full, and on this commence the wall. In case a drain is needed, it 

 should go from the bottom of this trench, but the principal use of this trench is to make the 

 cellar rat-proof. The idea is that rats, after digging down to the bottom of the solid wall, 



cow STALLS. 



find they cannot then get under it through the broken stone, and so abandon it. In practice 

 this has proved effectual. Have the cross sills so heavy and strong as not to require many 

 supports, which would obstruct the free driving of teams around in the basement. 



In getting the frame timber, much care should be used to get very stiff, strong beams 

 for the gable ends of the barn, as in barns of such breadth there is great danger of the ends 

 bulging out too much after the bays are filled. The best timbers for the girts are obtained 

 by taking larch or tamarack, from 8 to 10 inches through, and having them sawed through 

 the middle at the saw-mill. Shave off the bark, and use the straight side to nail the siding 

 to. The rounding side next to the mow makes it better and stiffer than common square 

 timber. For sleepers, take elm logs of the proper length, and 12 to 18 inches in size, sawed 

 like the girts, and always peel before using. 



