THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



start. There was no rain for ten days 

 after planting, but they did not show the 

 slightest signs of wilting; cultivating 

 both ways once a week was followed and 

 a handful of ashes given to each plant, 

 but progress was slow owing to cold 

 weather till the middle of July. 



The varieties planted were Maule's 

 Earliest which were too rough but a won- 

 derful cropper; the distance between 

 each plant four and a half feet. 



Ignotum a nice smooth tomato, but 

 not prolific enough, distance between 

 each plant was four and a half feet, 



Livingstone's Favorite was fairly pro- 

 fitable, and planted five feet apart. 



New Imperial were by far the largest 

 and best croppers, and the vines should 

 be planted seven feet apart; over a bushel 

 each was picked off some plants. I 

 also tried some of Carter's Duke of 

 York, one of the best English varieties ; 

 they were too small for canning pur- 

 poses, but would make good exporters 

 to English markets as the smaller toma- 



toes are more in demand than the large. 

 The plants were trimmed on the road- 

 way with single stems or cordons and 

 tied to stakes, the rest of the field was 

 left to natural growth, except a half acre 

 which was trimmed to a single stem and 

 left them lying on the ground which 

 produces earlier fruit. 



The method adopted by saving the 

 fruit from frost was by pulling up the 

 vines and placing them in heaps, then 

 at leisure shaking all the fruit off and 

 collecting in large heaps near the cold 

 frame, then culling out the ripest and 

 putting them under the glass when they 

 will ripen in a few days and be ready 

 for market. By continually going 

 through your heaps this way all the fruit 

 will in time ripen, and will not heat 

 enough to injure them ; keep them cov- 

 ered with the vines to protect from frost. 

 The product was sold to a canning 

 factory and realized fair profits, 



W. Shaw. 

 Delaware P. O. 



RASPBERRY CULTURE. 



""^RASPBERRIES may be success- 

 ■\\ fully grown upon any land 

 i_l W that will produce a good crop 

 of roots, although a dark 

 sandy loam is preferable to all other 

 soils. To obtain the best results the 

 land should be in a good state of tilth, 

 and should be thoroughly drained either 

 naturally or artificially, as a cold, wet 

 soil is particularly addicted to the de- 

 velopment of fungous diseases to which 

 the raspberry is very subject. A clover 

 sod, or land that has previously grown 

 a hoed crop, is most suitable, and if 

 possible it should be plowed in the fall 

 and a heavy coat of stable manure turn- 

 ed under to supply nitrogen. In the 



spring a liberal top-dressing of wood 

 ashes should be applied to furnish phos- 

 phoric acid, lime, and potash ; of the 

 latter the raspberry is a large consumer. 

 Then the land should be thoroughly 

 pulverized with a disc harrow and a 

 smoothing harrow, when it will be in the 

 best possible condition for receiving the 

 plants. These should be procured from 

 some reliable near by grower, as per- 

 sonal observation and advice can thus 

 be had as to the varieties most suitable 

 for your particular soil and climate, and 

 plants thus obtained will take root much 

 more readily than those which have 

 been shipped a long distance. 



In our estimation spring is much pre- 



qo 



